The Survey of Cornwall
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Richard Carew >> The Survey of Cornwall
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M. Wil. Kendals hospitality, while he liued, and here kept house,
deserueth a speciall remembrance, because, for store of resort and
franknes of entertainment, it exceeded all others of his sort.
This towne anno 11. H. 7, was by act of Parliament assigned,
to keepe the publike waights and measures, ordayned for the Countie.
Lostwithiel subiected it selfe to the commaund of Restormel Castle,
alias, Lestormel, sometimes the Dukes principal house. It is seated
in a park, vpon the plaine neck of a hill, backed to the Westwards,
with another, somewhat higher, & falling euery other way, to end in
a valley, watered by the fishfull riuer of Foy. His base court is
rather to be coniectured, then discerned, by the remnant of some
fewe ruines; amongst which, an ouen of 14. foot largenes, through his
exceeding proportion, prooueth the like hospitality of those dayes.
The inner court grounded vpon an intrenched rocke, was formed round,
had his vtter wall thick, strong, and garretted: his flat roofe
couered with lead, and his large windowes taking their light inwards.
It consisted of two stories, beisdes the vaults, and admitted
entrance and issue, by one onely gate, fenced with a Portcouliz.
Water was conueyed thither, by a conduit, from the higher ground
adioyning. Certes, it may moue compassion, that a Palace,
so healthfull for aire, so delightfull for prospect, so necessary
for commodities, so fayre (in regard of those dayes) for building,
and so strong for defence, should in time of secure peace, and vnder
the protection of his naturall Princes, be wronged with those
spoylings, then which, it could endure no greater, at the hands of
any forrayne and deadly enemy: for the Parke is disparked, the timber
rooted vp, the conduit pipes taken away, the roofe made sale of,
the planchings rotten, the wals fallen downe, and the hewed stones of
the windowes, dournes & clauels, pluct out to serue priuate buildings:
onely there remayneth an vtter defacement, to complayne vpon this
vnregarded distresse. It now appertayneth by lease, to Master Samuel,
who maried Halse : his father (a wise and pleasant conceited Gent.)
matched with Tremayne.
[139]
After wee haue quitted Restormel, Roche becomes our next place
of soiourne, though hardly inuiting, with promise of any better
entertainement, then the name carieth written in his forehead,
to wit, a huge, high and steepe rock, seated in a playne, girded on
either side, with (as it were) two substitutes, and meritorious
(no doubt) for the Hermite, who dwelt on the top thereof, were it
but in regard of such an vneasie climing to his cell and Chappell,
a part of whose naturall wals is wrought out of the rock itselfe.
Neere the foote of Roche, there lyeth a rock, leuell with the ground
aboue, and hollow downwards, with a winding depth, which contayneth
water, reported by some of the neighbours, to ebbe and flowe as
the sea. Of these, as another Cornish wonder.
You neighbour-scorners, holy-prowd,
Goe people Roche's cell,
Farre from the world, neere to the heau'ns,
There, Hermits, may you dwell.
Is't true that Spring in rock hereby,
Doth tide-wise ebbe and flow?
Or haue wee fooles with lyers met?
Fame saies it: be it so.
From hence ascending easily the space of a mile, you shall haue wonne
the top of the Cornish Archbeacon Hainborough, which (as little
to great) may for prospect compare with Rama in Palestina,
Henius in Medica, Collalto in Italy, and Sceafel in the Ile of Man:
for if the weathers darkenesse bounde not your eye-sight, within his
ordynarie extent, you shall thence plainely discerne, to the Eastwards,
a great part of Deuon, to the West, very neere the lands end, to the
North and South, the Ocean, and sundrie Ilands scattered therein,
wherethrough it passeth also for a wonder.
Haynboroughs wide prospect, at once,
Both feedes, and gluts your eye,
With Cornwals whole extent, as it
In length and breadth doth lie.
At Ladocke, in this Hundred, dwelleth master Peter Courtney,
who doubly fetcheth his pedigree, from that honourable flocke,
and embraceth the contentment of a quiet priuate life, before the
publike charge in his Countrie, due to his calling, and to which
long sithence, he hath bene called. His father maried (as I haue
shewed) the daughter & coheir of Trethurffe, himselfe Reskimers,
his sonne the daughter of Saintabyn: he beareth O. three Torteaux,
and a File with as many Lambeaux, B.
Leo Aser, in the delightfull, and approued description of his
Countrie, telleth vs of a blind guide, who would readily and safely
conduct straunger trauailers, ouer the huge Deserts, with which that
region aboundeth, and that the meanes he vsed, was, in certaine
distances, to smell at the sand, which gaue him perfect notice of
the places.
Likewise, Lewes Guicciardin, in his booke of Netherland, maketh report
of one Martyn Catelyn, borne at Weruicke in Flaunders, who falling
blind before he attained two yeeres age, grew, notwithstanding,
by his owne industrie, without any teacher, to such a perfection in
Timber handy-craft, as he could, not only turne, [140] and make
Virginals, Organes, Vyolons, and such like Instruments, with great
facilitie, order, and proportion, but also tune, and handsomely play
vpon them, and besides, deuised many seruiceable tooles for
his science.
These examples I thrust out before me, to make way, for a not much
lesse straunge relation, touching one Edward Bone, sometimes seruant
to the said master Courtney: which fellow (as by the assertion of
diuers credible persons, I haue beene informed) deafe from his cradle,
and consequently dumbe, would yet bee one of the first, to learne,
and expresse to his master, any newes that was sturring in the
Countrie: especially, if there went speech of a Sermon, within some
myles distance, hee would repaire to the place, with the soonest,
and setting himselfe directly against the Preacher, looke him
stedfastly in the face, while his Sermon lasted: to which religious
zeale, his honest life was also answerable. For, as hee shunned all
lewd parts himselfe, so, if hee espied any in his fellow seruants,
(which hee could and would quickely doe) his master should
straightwayes know it, and not rest free from importuning, vntill,
either the fellow had put away his fault, or their master his fellow.
And to make his minde knowne, in this, and all other
matters, hee vsed verie effectuall signes, being able therethrough,
to receiue, and perform any enioyned errand. Besides, hee was
afflicted with so firme a memorie, that he would not onely know
any partie, whome hee had once seene, for euer after, but also
make him knowne to any other, by some speciall obseruation,
and difference. Vpon a brother of his, God laid the like infirmitie,
but did not recompence it with the like raritie.
Somewhat neere the place of his birth, there dwelt another,
so affected, or rather defected, whose name was Kempe: which two,
when they chaunced to meete, would vse such kinde embracements,
such strange, often, and earnest tokenings, and such heartie
laughters, and other passionate gestures, that their want of a tongue,
seemed rather an hinderance to others conceiuing them, then to their
conceiuing one another.
Gwarnack, in this Hundred, was the Beuils ancient seate, whose two
daughters and heires, married Arundel of Trerice, and Greinuile.
Wolueden, alias, Golden, fell vnto Tregian, by match with the
Inheritrix thereof. Tregean signifieth the Giants towne: their sonne
married in Lanherne house, their Graund-child with the L. Stourtons
daughter: hee beareth Erm. on a chiefe S. three Martlets O.
It standeth in Probus Parish, whose high, and faire Church towre,
of hewed Moore stone, was builded within compasse of our remembrance,
by the well disposed Inhabitants: and here also dwelleth one Williams,
a wealthie, and charitable Farmer, Graund-father to sixtie persons,
now liuing, and able, lately to ride twelue myles in a morning,
for being witnesse to the christening of a child, to whome hee was
great great Graundfather.
From hence, drawing towards the South sea, wee will touch at the late
Parke of Lanhadron, because there groweth an Oke, bearing his leaues
speckled with white, as doth another, called Painters Oke, in the
Hundred of East: but whether the former partake any supernaturall
propertie, to foretoken the owners sonne insuing death, when his
leaues are al of one colour (as I haue [141] heard some report)
let those affirme, who better know it: certain it is, that diuers
auncient families in England are admonished by such predictions.
Grampond, if it tooke that name from any great Bridge, hath now
Nomen sine re: for the Bridge there is supported with onely a
few arches, and the Corporation but halfe, replenished with
Inhabitants, who may better vaunt of their townes antiquitie,
then the towne of their abilitie.
Of Pentuan I haue spoken before. For the present, it harboureth
master Dart, who as diuers other Gentlemen, well descended,
and accommodated in Deuon, doe yet rather make choyce of a pleasing
and retired equalitie in the little Cornish Angle. Hee matched
with Roscarrocke.
Penwarne, in the same Parish of Meuagesy, alias, S. Meuie, and Isy
(two nothing ambitious Saints, in resting satisfied with the partage
of so pettie a limit) is vested in master Otwell Hill, as heire
to his mother, the daughter and heire to Cosowarth, to whom it
likewise accrued, by matching with the daughter and heire of
that name: a seate, through his fruitfulnesse, and other
appurtenances, supplying the owner large meanes of hospitalitie,
and by him so imployed, who reckoned to receiue most good, when he
doth it. He deriueth himselfe from a populous, and well regarded
familie in Lancashire, and married the daughter of Denham: and beareth
G. a Cheuron, between three Garbes Ermine.
At the adioyning Saint Tue, dwelleth master Richard Tremayn,
descended from a yonger brother of Colocumb house, in Deuon,
who being learned in the lawes, is yet to learne, or at least
to practise, how he may make other profit thereby, then by hoording
vp treasure of gratitude, in the mindfull breasts of poore and rich,
on whom hee, gratis, bestoweth the fruites of his paines and
knowledge. He married Coffyn, hee beareth G. three Armes
in circle ioyned at the Tronkes 0. with hands proper.
Dudman, a wel-knowne foreland to most Saylers, here shouldreth out
the Ocean, to shape the same a large bosome betweene it selfe,
and Rame head, which are wel-neere twentie myles in distance.
Amongst sundrie prouerbs, allotting an impossible time of performance,
the Cornish men haue this one, When Rame-head and Dudman meet.
Whose possession, yet, though not themselues, met in
Sir Peers Edgecumb, as inioyning that, in right of his wife,
and this, by descent from his Father.
Bodrugan, a large demaines adioyning thereunto (which I will not
deriue from Sir Bars du Ganis, though the neighbours so say) was the
dwelling of Sir Henrie Trenowith, a man of great liuely-hood,
who chaunged his name with the house, and lost house and holding,
through attainder for rebellion, against king Henrie the seuenth.
The king bestowed it, by an intailed gift, vpon Sir Richard Edgecumb.
Next, lyeth the foreremembred Caryhayes (Kery haz in Cornish,
signifieth to beare his seede, or as some other define it,
delighting in seede) descended to M. Charles Treuanion, the present
possessioner, by a long ranke of auncestors, from Arundels daughter
and heire: his father married the daughter of Morgan, and sister to
the first Lord Humdons wife, which brought him an honourable ally.
Three of this Gentlemans elder brethren, Edward, Iohn, and Hugh,
forewent him in succession [142] to their fathers inheritance,
and passed to the better world in a single life: himselfe by matching
the daughter and heire of Witchalse, whose mother was coheire
to Marwood, hath raised issue vnto them, and continueth the hope
of posteritie. Sir William Treuanion, his Graundsire, tooke to wife
the said Sir Richard Edgecumbs daughter. The Treuanions Armes are
A. a Fesse B. charged with three Escalops O. betweene two Cheurons G.
Roseland, is a circuite, containing certaine Parishes hereabouts,
and benefiting the owners with his fruitfulnesse, so that though
the original of his name came (perhaps) as master Camden noteth,
from his former thickets, yet his present estate better resembleth
a flowrie effect.
By this time we approch the limits of Falmouth Hauen, vpon one of
whose Creekes, standeth the market and incorporate towne of Tregny,
not specially memorable (in my knowledge) for any extraordinarie
worth, or accident.
Of better regard is Truro, alias, Truru, or Trisow, as the principall
towne of the Hauen, priuiledged with a Mayraltie, and benefited with
the generall Westerne Sessions, Coynages, Markets, Faires, &c.
The shape of the towne, and Etymon of the name, may be learned
out of this Cornish propheticall rime.
Tru ru,
Triueth eu,
Ombdina geueth try ru.
Which is to say, Truro consisteth of three streetes, and it shall in
time bee said, Here Truro stood. A like mischief of a mysterie,
they obserue, that in taking T. from the towne, there resteth ru, ru,
which in English soundeth, Woe, woe: but whatsoeuer shall become
therof hereafter, for the present, I hold it to haue got the start
in wealth of any other Cornish towne, and to come behind none
in buildings, Lanceston onely excepted, where there is more vse,
and profit of faire lodgings, through the Countie Assizes. I wish
that they would likewise deserue praise, for getting, and imploying
their riches, in some industrious trade, to the good of their Countrie,
as the Harbours oportunitie inuiteth them.
Descending from Truro to the Hauens mouth, by water, you are
ouer-looked, by sundrie Gentlemens commodious seates, as Fentengollan,
in English, the Harts well, lately appertayning to master Carmynow,
by interpretation often louing, and now to master Holcomb,
who married the daughter of master Peter Courtney.
Master Sayers house, Ardeuora, inhabited by master Thomas Peyton,
a Gentleman for his age and vertues, deseruing a regardfull
estimation, [blank] Master Bescawnes, [blank] Master Sayers:
but amongst all, vpon that side of the riuer, Taluerne, for
pleasant prospect, large scope, and other hous-keeping commodities,
challengeth the preeminence: it was giuen to a yonger brother
of Lanhearne, for some six or seuen descents past, and hath bred
Gent. of good worth and calling: amongst whom, I may not forget the
late kind, & valiant Sir Iohn Arundell, who matched with Godolphin,
nor Iohn his vertuous, and hopeful succeeding sonne, who married
with Carew; though this remembrance renew that sorrow, which once
I partly expressed in the ensuing Epitaph.
[143]
Seeke not, blind eyes, the liuing with the dead,
Tis earth you see : our Arundel is gone,
To ioyne with Christ, as member to his head,
And skornes, and pities, this our bootlesse mone.
Yet pardon vs, sweete soule, mans nature beares,
We, to thy losse, should sacrifice our teares.
Thou time hast changed to eternitie,
But timelesse was that time, in our regard,
Since nought thou leau'st vs, faue the memorie
Of thy deare worth, so soone not to be spar'd.
Soft be the graue, vnto thy resting bones:
Short be the date, that vs againe atones.
Vpon the East side of the Hauens entrance, Saint Maryes, alias,
S. Mawes Castle, with his Point-blanke Ordinance, comptrolleth any
shipping, that deserue a deniall of admission or passage, and is
commaunded by master Viuian, a Gentleman, who through his worth
deserueth, and with due care and judgement dischargeth, the Martiall
and ciuill gouernments committed to his trust: hee beareth partie
per fesse Ar. and Vnsase 6. in chiefe, a Lyon rampant G.
We will close vp this Hundred, after our vsuall maner, with the
Gentlemen of marke, but not orderly marked. Such are Tanner,
who married the daughter of Roscarrock: who beareth A. on a chiefe S.
three Morions heads O. Pomeroy, a branch of Bery Pomeroy in Deuon:
he beareth O. a Lyon rampant G. who matched with Tanner, and whose
daughter & heire apparant, hath taken to husband the yong Penkeuil,
who beareth A. two Cheurons, and in chiefe a Lyon passant G.
Polwheele, whose name is deduced from his dwelling: and his dwelling
may be interpreted, The miry worke, linked in wedlock with the
coheire of Trencreeke, in English, The towne of the borough.
His mother was Lower of Trelask. Polwheel beareth S. a Saultier
engrayled Erm.
Hearle, lineally descended from sundry Knights, who wedded Treuanion:
and his sonne Treffry. Hee bearth A. a Fesse G. betweene
3. Sheldrakes proper.
Sawle, who espoused Rashleigh: and his father, Kendall, &c.
and beareth A. a Cheuron betweene 3. Faulcons heads erased S.
Pider Hundred.
I Must now, for a while, bid the South sea farewell, vntill a
new oportunity call mee to end the other part of Falmouth hauen,
and take the Hundred of Pider in taske, which confineth with Powder
in situation, as it resembleth the same in denomination.
Pider in Cornish is 4. in English, and this is the fourth Hundred
of Cornwall, if you begin your reckoning from the Wester part,
at Penwith, which (signifying a head) doth seeme so to require it.
In entring this Hundred, Padstowe first presenteth it selfe, a towne
and hauen of suteable quality, for both (though bad) are the best,
that the North Cornish coast possesseth. The Borough gaue name to
the harbour, and borroweth it of Petrock and Stowe, contracting the
same into Padstowe. It hath lately purchased a corporation and
reapeth greatest thrift, by traffiking [144] with Ireland, for which
it commodiously lieth.
The harbour is barred with banks of sand, made (through vniting their
weak forces) sufficiently strong, to resist the Oceans threatening
billows, which (diuorced from their parent) find their rage subdued
by the others lowly submission.
M. Nicholas Prideaux, from his new and stately house, thereby taketh
a ful and large prospect of the towne, hauen, & countrey adioyning,
to all which, his wisdome is a stay, his authority a direction.
He maried one of Viels coheires; and though endowed with fayre
reuenues in Deuon, maketh Cornwall beholden to his residence.
He beareth A. a Cheuron S. in chief a fyle with three Lambreaux G.
The salt water leauing Padstowe, floweth up into the countrey,
that it may embrace the riuer Camel, and hauing performed this
naturall courtesie, ebbeth away againe, to yield him the freer
passage, by which meanes they both vndergoe Wade bridge, the longest,
strongest, and fayrest that the Shire can muster. It tooke his
name of a foorde adioyning, which affoordeth a way, not so safe,
as compendious, when the tyde is out.
Wade bridge delivereth you into a waste ground, where 9. long and
great stones, called The sisters, stand in a ranke together,
and seeme to haue bene so pitched, for continuing the memory of
somewhat, whose notice is yet enuied vs by time.
Neere to Belowdy, commonly, & not vnproperly, termed Beelowzy,
the top of a hill is enuironed with deep treble trenches, which leaue
a large playne space in the midst: they call it Castellan Danis,
of which my former booke maketh mention; and it seemeth (in times
past) to haue bin a matter of moment, the rather, for that a great
cawsey (now couered with grasse) doth lead vnto it.
Saint Colombs is a bigge parish, and a meane market towne, subiect to
the Lordship and patronage of the Lanhearn Arundels, who for
many descents, lye there interred, as the inscriptions on their
graue stones doe testify.
Theire name is deriued from Hirundelle, in French, a Swallow, & out
of France, at the conquest they came, & sixe Swallowes they giue
in Armes. The Countrey people entitle them, The great Arundels:
and greatest stroke, for loue, liuing, and respect, in the Countrey
heretofore they bare.
Their sayd house of Lanhearne, standeth in the next parish,
called Mawgan: Ladu is Cornish for a bank, and on a banke the same
is seated, what hearne may mean, ignorance bids mee keepe silence.
It is appurtenanced with a large scope of land, which (while the
owners there liued) was employed to franke hospitality; yet the
same wanted wood, in lieu whereof, they burned heath, and generally,
it is more regardable for profit, then commendale for pleasure.
The Gent. now liuing, maried Anne the daughter of Henry Gerningham:
his father (a man of a goodly presence and kinde magnanimity) maried
the daughter of the Earle of Darby, and widdow to the L. Stourton.
He beareth S. 6. Swallowes in pile A.
Little Colan hath lesse worth the obseruation, vnlesse you will
deride, or pity, their simplicity, who sought at our Lady Nants
well there, to foreknowe what fortune should betide them, which was
in this maner:
Vpon Palm Sunday, these idle-headed seekers resorted thither,
with a palme crosse in one hand, & an offring [145] in the other:
the offring fell to the Priests share, the Crosse they threwe into
the well; which if it swamme, the party should outliue that yeere;
if it sunk, a short ensuing death was boded: and perhaps,
not altogether vntruely, while a foolish conceyt of this halfening
might the sooner helpe it onwards. A contrary practise to the
goddess Iunoes lake In Laconia: for there, if the wheaten cakes,
cast in vpon her festiuall day, were by the water receiued,
it betokened good luck; if reiected, euill. The like is written
by Pausanias, of Inus in Greece, and by others touching the offrings
throwne into the fornace of mount Etna in Sicill.
From hence, by the double duety of consanguinitie and affinity, I am
called to stop at Cosowarth, which inhabitance altered the Inhabitants
from their former French name Escudifer, in English, Iron shield,
to his owne, as they prooue by olde euidence, not needing in the
Norman Kings new birth, to be distinguished with the Raigners number.
Cosowarth, in Cornish, importeth The high groue: and well stored
with trees it hath bene, neither is yet altogether destitute.
Iohn the heire of that house, hauing by the daughter of Williams,
issue only one daughter Katherine, suffered part of his lands to
descend vnto the children of her first husband, Alen Hill:
another part hee intayled in her second marriage, with Arundel of
Trerice, to their issue. The house of Cosowarth, and the auncient
inheritance there adioyning, he gaue to the heires male of
his stock, by which conueyance, his vncle Iohn succeeded,
who married the daughter of Sir Wil. Lock, King H. the 8. marchant,
and by him knighted, for that with equall courage, and hazard,
hee tooke downe the Popes Bull, set vp at Antwerp against
his Soueraigne. He had issue Thomas, Edward, Michael, Iohn,
and Robert. Thomas maried the daughter of Samtabyn, on whom he
begat Iohn and Dorothy: Iohn the elder and Robert, neuer tasted
the sweet and sowre of bridale fruit.
Michael tooke to wife Sidenhams daughter of Dulverton in
Somerset shire, and is father onely of issue female.
Hee addicteth himself to an Ecclesiasticall life, and therein
ioyning Poetry with Diuinity, endeuoureth to imitate the holy
Prophet Dauid, whose Psalmes, of his translation into English meeter,
receiue the general applause, beyond a great many other wel-deseruing
vndertakers of the same taske.
Iohn the youngest, succeeding in this inheritance, vpon iust cause,
good conscience, and gratefull kindnesse, renewed the intayle which
his father Thomas had cut off, and in a single estate, and the
vniuersall loue of all that conuersed with him, made a short period
of his long hoped life: whose decease I bewayled in these rimes.
HE that at sea and land amidst his foes,
By courage guided, sought, and scapt his death,
Loe, here, amongst his friends, whom liking chose,
And nature lent, hath vp resign'd his breath.
Vnripened fruit in grouth, precious in hope,
Rare in effect, had fortune giuen scope.
Our eyes with teares performe thine obsequy,
And hearts with sighes, since hands could yeeld none aid, [146]
Our tongues with praise preserue thy memory,
And thoughts with griefs, since we behind are staid.
Coswarth farewell, death which vs parts atwaine,
E're long, in life, shall vs conioyne againe.
His sister maried Kendall.
Edward his vncle, and heire, by vertue of these entayles, married the
daughter of Arundel of Trerice, and from a ciuill Courtiers life in
his younger yeers, reposeth his elder age, on the good husbandry of
the country, hauing raised posterity sufficient, for transplanting
the name into many other quarters. He beareth A. on a Cheuron
betweene three wings B. fiue Bezants.
Against you haue passed towards the West somewhat more then a mile,
Trerice, anciently, Treres, offereth you the viewe of his costly and
commodious buildings. What Tre is, you know already, res signifieth
a rushing of fleeting away, and vpon the declyning of a hill the
house is seated.
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