The Bible in Spain

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Encouraged, however, by the guide, who assured us there was no
danger, we at length reached the bottom of the ravine; here we
encountered a rill of water, through which we were compelled to
wade as high as the knee. In the midst of the water I looked up
and caught a glimpse of the heavens through the branches of the
trees, which all around clothed the shelving sides of the ravine
and completely embowered the channel of the stream: to a place
more strange and replete with gloom and horror no benighted
traveller ever found his way. After a short pause we commenced
scaling the opposite bank, which we did not find so steep as the
other, and a few minutes' exertion brought us to the top.

Shortly afterwards the rain abated, and the moon arising cast a dim
light through the watery mists; the way had become less
precipitous, and in about two hours we descended to the shore of an
extensive creek, along which we proceeded till we reached a spot
where many boats and barges lay with their keels upward upon the
sand. Presently we beheld before us the walls of Viveiro, upon
which the moon was shedding its sickly lustre. We entered by a
lofty and seemingly ruinous archway, and the guide conducted us at
once to the posada.

Every person in Viveiro appeared to be buried in profound slumber;
not so much as a dog saluted us with his bark. After much knocking
we were admitted into the posada, a large and dilapidated edifice.
We had scarcely housed ourselves and horses when the rain began to
fall with yet more violence than before, attended with much thunder
and lightning. Antonio and I, exhausted with fatigue, betook
ourselves to flock beds in a ruinous chamber, into which the rain
penetrated through many a cranny, whilst the guides ate bread and
drank wine till the morning.

When I arose I was gladdened by the sight of a fine day. Antonio
forthwith prepared a savoury breakfast of stewed fowl, of which we
stood in much need after the ten league journey of the preceding
day over the ways which I have attempted to describe. I then
walked out to view the town, which consists of little more than one
long street, on the side of a steep mountain thickly clad with
forests and fruit trees. At about ten we continued our journey,
accompanied by our first guide, the other having returned to Coisa
doiro some hours previously.

Our route throughout this day was almost constantly within sight of
the shores of the Cantabrian sea, whose windings we followed. The
country was barren, and in many parts covered with huge stones:
cultivated spots, however, were to be seen, where vines were
growing. We met with but few human habitations. We however
journeyed on cheerfully, for the sun was once more shining in full
brightness, gilding the wild moors, and shining upon the waters of
the distant sea, which lay in unruffled calmness.

At evening fall we were in the neighbourhood of the shore, with a
range of wood-covered hills on our right. Our guide led us towards
a creek bordered by a marsh, but he soon stopped and declared that
he did not know whither he was conducting us.

"Mon maitre," said Antonio, "let us be our own guides; it is, as
you see, of no use to depend upon this fellow, whose whole science
consists in leading people into quagmires."

We therefore turned aside and proceeded along the marsh for a
considerable distance, till we reached a narrow path which led us
into a thick wood, where we soon became completely bewildered. On
a sudden, after wandering about a considerable time, we heard the
noise of water, and presently the clack of a wheel. Following the
sound, we arrived at a low stone mill, built over a brook; here we
stopped and shouted, but no answer was returned. "The place is
deserted," said Antonio; "here, however, is a path, which, if we
follow it, will doubtless lead us to some human habitation." So we
went along the path, which, in about ten minutes, brought us to the
door of a cabin, in which we saw lights. Antonio dismounted and
opened the door: "Is there any one here who can conduct us to
Rivadeo?" he demanded.

"Senhor," answered a voice, "Rivadeo is more than five leagues from
here, and, moreover, there is a river to cross!"

"Then to the next village," continued Antonio.

"I am a vecino of the next village, which is on the way to
Rivadeo," said another voice, "and I will lead you thither, if you
will give me fair words, and, what is better, fair money."

A man now came forth, holding in his hand a large stick. He strode
sturdily before us, and in less than half an hour led us out of the
wood. In another half hour he brought us to a group of cabins
situated near the sea; he pointed to one of these, and having
received a peseta, bade us farewell.

The people of the cottage willingly consented to receive us for the
night: it was much more cleanly and commodious than the wretched
huts of the Gallegan peasantry in general. The ground floor
consisted of a keeping room and stable, whilst above was a long
loft, in which were some neat and comfortable flock beds. I
observed several masts and sails of boats. The family consisted of
two brothers with their wives and families; one was a fisherman,
but the other, who appeared to be the principal person, informed me
that he had resided for many years in service at Madrid, and having
amassed a small sum, he had at length returned to his native
village, where he had purchased some land which he farmed. All the
family used the Castilian language in their common discourse, and
on inquiry I learned that the Gallegan was not much spoken in that
neighbourhood. I have forgotten the name of this village, which is
situated on the estuary of the Foz, which rolls down from
Mondonedo. In the morning we crossed this estuary in a large boat
with our horses, and about noon arrived at Rivadeo.

"Now, your worship," said the guide who had accompanied us from
Ferrol, "I have brought you as far as I bargained, and a hard
journey it has been; I therefore hope you will suffer Perico and
myself to remain here to-night at your expense, and to-morrow we
will go back; at present we are both sorely tired."

"I never mounted a better pony than Perico," said I, "and never met
with a worse guide than yourself. You appear to be perfectly
ignorant of the country, and have done nothing but bring us into
difficulties. You may, however, stay here for the night, as you
say you are tired, and to-morrow you may return to Ferrol, where I
counsel you to adopt some other trade." This was said at the door
of the posada of Rivadeo.

"Shall I lead the horses to a stable?" said the fellow.

"As you please," said I.

Antonio looked after him for a moment, as he was leading the
animals away, and then shaking his head followed slowly after. In
about a quarter of an hour he returned, laden with the furniture of
our own horse, and with a smile upon his countenance: "Mon
maitre," said he, "I have throughout the journey had a bad opinion
of this fellow, and now I have detected him: his motive in
requesting permission to stay, was a desire to purloin something
from us. He was very officious in the stable about our horse, and
I now miss the new leathern girth which secured the saddle, and
which I observed him looking at frequently on the road. He has by
this time doubtless hid it somewhere; we are quite secure of him,
however, for he has not yet received the hire for the pony, nor the
gratuity for himself."

The guide returned just as he had concluded speaking. Dishonesty
is always suspicious. The fellow cast a glance upon us, and
probably beholding in our countenances something which he did not
like, he suddenly said, "Give me the horse-hire and my own propina,
for Perico and I wish to be off instantly."

"How is this?" said I; "I thought you and Perico were both
fatigued, and wished to rest here for the night; you have soon
recovered from your weariness."

"I have thought over the matter," said the fellow, "and my master
will be angry if I loiter here: pay us, therefore, and let us go."

"Certainly," said I, "if you wish it. Is the horse furniture all
right?"

"Quite so," said he; "I delivered it all to your servant."

"It is all here," said Antonio, "with the exception of the leathern
girth."

"I have not got it," said the guide.

"Of course not," said I. "Let us proceed to the stable, we shall
perhaps find it there."

To the stable we went, which we searched through: no girth,
however, was forthcoming. "He has got it buckled round his middle
beneath his pantaloons, mon maitre," said Antonio, whose eyes were
moving about like those of a lynx; "I saw the protuberance as he
stooped down. However, let us take no notice: he is here
surrounded by his countrymen, who, if we were to seize him, might
perhaps take his part. As I said before, he is in our power, as we
have not paid him."

The fellow now began to talk in Gallegan to the by-standers
(several persons having collected), wishing the Denho to take him
if he knew anything of the missing property. Nobody, however,
seemed inclined to take his part; and those who listened, only
shrugged their shoulders. We returned to the portal of the posada,
the fellow following us, clamouring for the horse-hire and propina.
We made him no answer, and at length he went away, threatening to
apply to the justicia; in about ten minutes, however, he came
running back with the girth in his hand: "I have just found it,"
said he, "in the street: your servant dropped it."

I took the leather and proceeded very deliberately to count out the
sum to which the horse-hire amounted, and having delivered it to
him in the presence of witnesses, I said, "During the whole journey
you have been of no service to us whatever; nevertheless, you have
fared like ourselves, and have had all you could desire to eat and
drink. I intended, on your leaving us, to present you, moreover,
with a propina of two dollars; but since, notwithstanding our kind
treatment, you endeavoured to pillage us, I will not give you a
cuarto: go, therefore, about your business."

All the audience expressed their satisfaction at this sentence, and
told him that he had been rightly served, and that he was a
disgrace to Galicia. Two or three women crossed themselves, and
asked him if he was not afraid that the Denho, whom he had invoked,
would take him away. At last, a respectable-looking man said to
him: "Are you not ashamed to have attempted to rob two innocent
strangers?"

"Strangers!" roared the fellow, who was by this time foaming with
rage; "Innocent strangers, carracho! they know more of Spain and
Galicia too than the whole of us. Oh, Denho, that servant is no
man but a wizard, a nuveiro.--Where is Perico?"

He mounted Perico, and proceeded forthwith to another posada. The
tale, however, of his dishonesty had gone before him, and no person
would house him; whereupon he returned on his steps, and seeing me
looking out of the window of the house, he gave a savage shout, and
shaking his fist at me, galloped out of the town, the people
pursuing him with hootings and revilings.

CHAPTER XXXII

Martin of Rivadeo--The Factious Mare--Asturians--Luarca--The Seven
Bellotas--Hermits--The Asturian's Tale--Strange Guests--The Big
Servant--Batuschca

"What may your business be?" said I to a short, thick, merry-faced
fellow in a velveteen jerkin and canvas pantaloons, who made his
way into my apartment, in the dusk of the evening.

"I am Martin of Rivadeo, your worship," replied the man, "an
alquilador by profession; I am told that you want a horse for your
journey into the Asturias to-morrow, and of course a guide: now,
if that be the case, I counsel you to hire myself and mare."

"I am become tired of guides," I replied; "so much so that I was
thinking of purchasing a pony, and proceeding without any guide at
all. The last which we had was an infamous character."

"So I have been told, your worship, and it was well for the bribon
that I was not in Rivadeo when the affair to which you allude
occurred. But he was gone with the pony Perico before I came back,
or I would have bled the fellow to a certainty with my knife. He
is a disgrace to the profession, which is one of the most
honourable and ancient in the world. Perico himself must have been
ashamed of him, for Perico, though a pony, is a gentleman, one of
many capacities, and well known upon the roads. He is only
inferior to my mare."

"Are you well acquainted with the road to Oviedo?" I demanded.

"I am not, your worship; that is, no farther than Luarca, which is
the first day's journey. I do not wish to deceive you, therefore
let me go with you no farther than that place; though perhaps I
might serve for the whole journey, for though I am unacquainted
with the country, I have a tongue in my head, and nimble feet to
run and ask questions. I will, however, answer for myself no
farther than Luarca, where you can please yourselves. Your being
strangers is what makes me wish to accompany you, for I like the
conversation of strangers, from whom I am sure to gain information
both entertaining and profitable. I wish, moreover, to convince
you that we guides of Galicia are not all thieves, which I am sure
you will not suppose if you only permit me to accompany you as far
as Luarca."

I was so much struck with the fellow's good humour and frankness,
and more especially by the originality of character displayed in
almost every sentence which he uttered, that I readily engaged him
to guide us to Luarca; whereupon he left me, promising to be ready
with his mare at eight next morning.

Rivadeo is one of the principal seaports of Galicia, and is
admirably situated for commerce, on a deep firth, into which the
river Mirando debouches. It contains many magnificent buildings,
and an extensive square or plaza, which is planted with trees. I
observed several vessels in the harbour; and the population, which
is rather numerous, exhibited none of those marks of misery and
dejection which I had lately observed among the Ferrolese.

On the morrow Martin of Rivadeo made his appearance at the
appointed hour with his mare. It was a lean haggard animal, not
much larger than a pony; it had good points, however, and was very
clean in its hinder legs, and Martin insisted that it was the best
animal of its kind in all Spain. "It is a factious mare," said he,
"and I believe an Alavese. When the Carlists came here it fell
lame, and they left it behind, and I purchased it for a dollar. It
is not lame now, however, as you shall soon see."

We had now reached the firth which divides Galicia from the
Asturias. A kind of barge was lying about two yards from the side
of the quay, waiting to take us over. Towards this Martin led his
mare, and giving an encouraging shout, the creature without any
hesitation sprang over the intervening space into the barge. "I
told you she was a facciosa," said Martin; "none but a factious
animal would have taken such a leap."

We all embarked in the barge and crossed over the firth, which is
in this place nearly a mile broad, to Castro Pol, the first town in
the Asturias. I now mounted the factious mare, whilst Antonio
followed on my own horse. Martin led the way, exchanging jests
with every person whom he met on the road, and occasionally
enlivening the way with an extemporaneous song.

We were now in the Asturias, and about noon we reached Navias, a
small fishing town, situate on a ria or firth; in the neighbourhood
are ragged mountains, called the Sierra de Buron, which stand in
the shape of a semi-circle. We saw a small vessel in the harbour,
which we subsequently learned was from the Basque provinces, come
for a cargo of cider or sagadua, the beverage so dearly loved by
the Basques. As we passed along the narrow street, Antonio was
hailed with an "Ola" from a species of shop in which three men,
apparently shoemakers, were seated. He stopped for some time to
converse with them, and when he joined us at the posada where we
halted, I asked him who they were: "Mon maitre," said he, "ce sont
des messieurs de ma connoissance. I have been fellow servant at
different times with all three; and I tell you beforehand, that we
shall scarcely pass through a village in this country where I shall
not find an acquaintance. All the Asturians, at some period of
their lives, make a journey to Madrid, where, if they can obtain a
situation, they remain until they have scraped up sufficient to
turn to advantage in their own country; and as I have served in all
the great houses in Madrid, I am acquainted with the greatest part
of them. I have nothing to say against the Asturians, save that
they are close and penurious whilst at service; but they are not
thieves, neither at home nor abroad, and though we must have our
wits about us in their country, I have heard we may travel from one
end of it to the other without the slightest fear of being either
robbed or ill treated, which is not the case in Galicia, where we
were always in danger of having our throats cut."

Leaving Navias, we proceeded through a wild desolate country, till
we reached the pass of Baralla, which lies up the side of a huge
wall of rocks, which at a distance appear of a light green colour,
though perfectly bare of herbage or plants of any description.

"This pass," said Martin of Rivadeo, "bears a very evil reputation,
and I should not like to travel it after sunset. It is not
infested by robbers, but by things much worse, the duendes of two
friars of Saint Francis. It is said that in the old time, long
before the convents were suppressed, two friars of the order of
Saint Francis left their convent to beg; it chanced that they were
very successful, but as they were returning at nightfall, by this
pass, they had a quarrel about what they had collected, each
insisting that he had done his duty better than the other; at last,
from high words they fell to abuse, and from abuse to blows. What
do you think these demons of friars did? They took off their
cloaks, and at the end of each they made a knot, in which they
placed a large stone, and with these they thrashed and belaboured
each other till both fell dead. Master, I know not which are the
worst plagues, friars, curates, or sparrows:

"May the Lord God preserve us from evil birds three:
From all friars and curates and sparrows that be;
For the sparrows eat up all the corn that we sow,
The friars drink down all the wine that we grow,
Whilst the curates have all the fair dames at their nod:
From these three evil curses preserve us, Lord God."

In about two hours from this time we reached Luarca, the situation
of which is most singular. It stands in a deep hollow, whose sides
are so precipitous that it is impossible to descry the town until
you stand just above it. At the northern extremity of this hollow
is a small harbour, the sea entering it by a narrow cleft. We
found a large and comfortable posada, and by the advice of Martin,
made inquiry for a fresh guide and horse; we were informed,
however, that all the horses of the place were absent, and that if
we waited for their return, we must tarry for two days. "I had a
presentiment," said Martin, "when we entered Luarca, that we were
not doomed to part at present. You must now hire my mare and me as
far as Giyon, from whence there is a conveyance to Oviedo. To tell
you the truth, I am by no means sorry that the guides are absent,
for I am pleased with your company, as I make no doubt you are with
mine. I will now go and write a letter to my wife at Rivadeo,
informing her that she must not expect to see me back for several
days." He then went out of the room singing the following stanza:

"A handless man a letter did write,
A dumb dictated it word for word:
The person who read it had lost his sight,
And deaf was he who listened and heard."

Early the next morning we emerged from the hollow of Luarca; about
an hour's riding brought us to Caneiro, a deep and romantic valley
of rocks, shaded by tall chestnut trees. Through the midst of this
valley rushes a rapid stream, which we crossed in a boat. "There
is not such a stream for trout in all the Asturias," said the
ferryman; "look down into the waters and observe the large stones
over which it flows; now in the proper season and in fine weather,
you cannot see those stones for the multitude of fish which cover
them."

Leaving the valley behind us, we entered into a wild and dreary
country, stony and mountainous. The day was dull and gloomy, and
all around looked sad and melancholy. "Are we in the way for Giyon
and Oviedo?" demanded Martin of an ancient female, who stood at the
door of a cottage.

"For Giyon and Oviedo!" replied the crone; "many is the weary step
you will have to make before you reach Giyon and Oviedo. You must
first of all crack the bellotas: you are just below them."

"What does she mean by cracking the bellotas?" demanded I of Martin
of Rivadeo.

"Did your worship never hear of the seven bellotas?" replied our
guide. "I can scarcely tell you what they are, as I have never
seen them; I believe they are seven hills which we have to cross,
and are called bellotas from some resemblance to acorns which it is
fancied they bear. I have often heard of these acorns, and am not
sorry that I have now an opportunity of seeing them, though it is
said that they are rather hard things for horses to digest."

The Asturian mountains in this part rise to a considerable
altitude. They consist for the most part of dark granite, covered
here and there with a thin layer of earth. They approach very near
to the sea, to which they slope down in broken ridges, between
which are deep and precipitous defiles, each with its rivulet, the
tribute of the hills to the salt flood. The road traverses these
defiles. There are seven of them, which are called, in the
language of the country, Las siete bellotas. Of all these, the
most terrible is the midmost, down which rolls an impetuous
torrent. At the upper end of it rises a precipitous wall of rock,
black as soot, to the height of several hundred yards; its top, as
we passed, was enveloped with a veil of bretima. From this gorge
branch off, on either side, small dingles or glens, some of them so
overgrown with trees and copse-wood, that the eye is unable to
penetrate the obscurity beyond a few yards.

"Fine places would some of these dingles prove for hermitages,"
said I to Martin of Rivadeo. "Holy men might lead a happy life
there on roots and water, and pass many years absorbed in heavenly
contemplation, without ever being disturbed by the noise and
turmoil of the world."

"True, your worship," replied Martin; "and perhaps on that very
account there are no hermitages in the barrancos of the seven
bellotas. Our hermits had little inclination for roots and water,
and had no kind of objection to be occasionally disturbed in their
meditations. Vaya! I never yet saw a hermitage that was not hard
by some rich town or village, or was not a regular resort for all
the idle people in the neighbourhood. Hermits are not fond of
living in dingles, amongst wolves and foxes; for how in that case
could they dispose of their poultry? A hermit of my acquaintance
left, when he died, a fortune of seven hundred dollars to his
niece, the greatest part of which he scraped up by fattening
turkeys."

At the top of this bellota we found a wretched venta, where we
refreshed ourselves, and then continued our journey. Late in the
afternoon we cleared the last of these difficult passes. The wind
began now to rise, bearing on its wings a drizzling rain. We
passed by Soto Luino, and shaping our course through a wild but
picturesque country, we found ourselves about nightfall at the foot
of a steep hill, up which led a narrow bridle-way, amidst a grove
of lofty trees. Long before we had reached the top it had become
quite dark, and the rain had increased considerably. We stumbled
along in the obscurity, leading our horses, which were occasionally
down on their knees, owing to the slipperiness of the path. At
last we accomplished the ascent in safety, and pushing briskly
forward, we found ourselves, in about half an hour, at the entrance
of Muros, a large village situated just on the declivity of the
farther side of the hill.

A blazing fire in the posada soon dried our wet garments, and in
some degree recompensed us for the fatigues which we had undergone
in scrambling up the bellotas. A rather singular place was this
same posada of Muros. It was a large rambling house, with a
spacious kitchen, or common room, on the ground floor. Above
stairs was a large dining-apartment, with an immense oak table, and
furnished with cumbrous leathern chairs with high backs, apparently
three centuries old at least. Communicating with this apartment
was a wooden gallery, open to the air, which led to a small
chamber, in which I was destined to sleep, and which contained an
old-fashioned tester-bed with curtains. It was just one of those
inns which romance writers are so fond of introducing in their
descriptions, especially when the scene of adventure lies in Spain.
The host was a talkative Asturian.