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Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central

E >> Edward John Eyre >> Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central




On the 15th of June I attended a meeting of the Committee, and presented
for audit the accounts of the expenditure incurred up to that date. On
the 16th I had a sale of all my private effects, furniture, etc. by
auction, and arranged my affairs in the best way that the very limited
time at my disposal would permit.

The 17th found me still with plenty of work to do, as there were many
little matters to attend to at the last, which the best exertions could
not sooner set aside.

Mr. Scott, who ever since the commencement of our preparations, had been
most indefatigable and useful in his exertions, was even still more
severely tasked on this day; at night, however, we were all amply
rewarded, by seeing every thing completely and satisfactorily
arranged--the bustle, confusion, and excitement over, and our drays all
loaded, and ready to commence on the morrow a journey of which the
length, the difficulty, and the result, were all a problem yet to be
solved.

In the short space of seventeen days from the first commencement of our
preparations, we had completely organized and fully equipped a party for
interior exploration. Every thing had been done in that short time men
hired, horses sought out and selected, drays prepared, saddlery, harness,
and the thousand little things required on such journeys, purchased,
fitted and arranged. In that short time too, the Colonists had subscribed
and collected the sum of five hundred pounds towards defraying the
expenses, exclusive of the Government contribution of 100 pounds.

Unfortunately, at the time the expedition was undertaken, every thing in
South Australia was excessively dear, and the cost of its outfit was
therefore much greater in 1840, than it would have been any year since
that period; nine horses (including a Timor pony, subsequently procured
at Port Lincoln) cost 682 pounds 10 shillings, whilst all other things
were proportionably expensive. After the expedition had terminated and
the men's wages and other expenses had been paid, the gross outlay
amounted to 1391 pounds 0 shillings 7 pence:--of this

Amount of Donation from Government was 100 00 00
Amount of Subscriptions of the Colonists 582 04 09
Sale of the Drays and part of the Equipment 28 00 00
Amount paid by myself 680 15 10
----------
Total 1391 00 07


In addition to this expenditure, considerable as it was, there were very
many things obtained from various sources, which though of great value
did not come into the outlay already noted. Among these were two horses
supplied by the Government, and three supplied by myself, making with the
nine bought for 682 pounds 10 shillings, a total of fourteen horses. The
very valuable services of the cutters "HERO" and "WATERWITCH," were
furnished by the Government; who also supplied all our arms and
ammunition, with a variety of other stores. From my many friends I
received donations of books and instruments, and I was myself enabled to
supply from my own resources a portion of the harness, saddlery, tools,
and tarpaulins, together with a light cart and a tent.

June 18.--Calling my party up early, I ordered the horses to be
harnessed, and yoked to the drays, at half past nine the whole party,
(except the overseer who was at a station up the country) proceeded to
Government House, where the drays were halted for the men to partake of a
breakfast kindly provided for them by His Excellency and Mrs. Gawler,
whilst myself and Mr. Scott joined the very large party invited to meet
us in the drawing room.

The following account of the proceedings of the morning, taken from the
South Australian Register, of the 20th June, may perhaps be read with
interest; at least it will shew the disinterested spirit and enterprising
character of the colonists of South Australia, even at this early stage
of its history, and especially how much the members of our little party
were indebted to the kindness and good feeling of the Governor and
colonists, who were anxious to cheer and stimulate us under the
difficulties and trails we had to encounter, by their earnest wishes and
prayers for our safety and success.


EXPLORATORY EXPEDITION TO THE CENTRE OF NEW HOLLAND

The arrangements for the expedition into the interior, undertaken by Mr.
Eyre, having been completed, His Excellency the Governor and Mrs. Gawler
issued cards to a number of the principal colonists and personal friends
of Mr. Eyre, to meet him at Government House on the morning of his
departure. On Thursday last accordingly (the anniversary of Waterloo, in
which His Excellency and the gallant 52nd bore so conspicuous a part) a
very large party of ladies and gentlemen assembled. After an elegant
DEJEUNER A LA FOURCHETTE, His Excellency the Governor rose and spoke as
nearly as we could collect, as follows:--

"We are assembled to promote one of the most important undertakings that
remain to be accomplished on the face of the globe--the discovery of the
interior of Australia. As Captain Sturt in substance remarked in a recent
lecture, of the five great divisions of the earth, Europe is well known;
Asia and America have been generally searched out; the portion that
remains to be known of Africa is generally unfavourable for Europeans,
and probably unfit for colonization; but Australia, our great island
continent, with a most favourable climate, still remains unpenetrated,
mysterious, and unknown. Without doing injustice to the enterprising
attempts of Oxley, Sturt, and Mitchell, I must remark that they were
commenced from a very unfavourable point--from the eastern and almost
south-eastern extremity of the island--and consequently the great
interior still remains untouched by them, the south-eastern corner alone
having been investigated. As Captain Sturt some years since declared,
this Province is the point from which expeditions to the deep interior
should set out. This principle, I know, has been acknowledged by
scientific men in Europe; and it is most gratifying to see the spirit
with which our Colonists on the present occasion have answered to the
claim which their position imposes upon them. Mr. Eyre goes forth this
day, to endeavour to plant the British flag--the flag which in the whole
world has "braved for a thousand years the battle and the breeze"--on the
tropic of Capricorn (as nearly as possible in 135 degrees or 136 degrees
of longitude) in the very centre of our island continent. On this day
twenty-five years since, commencing almost at this very hour, the British
flag braved indeed the battle, and at length floated triumphant in
victory on the field of Waterloo. May a similar glorious success attend
the present undertaking! Mr. Eyre goes forth to brave a battle of a
different kind, but which in the whole, may present dangers equal to
those of Waterloo. May triumph crown his efforts, and may the British
flag, planted by him in the centre of Australia, wave for another
thousand years over the pence and prosperity of the mighty population
which immigration is pouring in upon us! Of the immediate results of his
journey, no one, indeed, can at present form a solid conjecture. Looking
to the dark side, he may traverse a country useless to man; but
contemplating the bright side, and remembering that but a few years since
Sturt, setting off on an equally mysterious course, laid the foundation
for the large community in which we dwell, it is in reason to hope that
Mr. Eyre will discover a country which may derive support from us, and
increase the prosperity of our Province. I must express my gratification
at the manner in which this enterprise, noble, let its results be what
they may, has been supported by our colonists at large. It is a greater
honor to be at the head of the government of a colony of enlightened and
enterprising men, than at that of an empire of enslaved and ignorant
beings in the form of men. I count it so. May the zeal which has been
exhibited in the colony in the promotion of every good and useful work
ever continue. Some ladies of Adelaide have worked a British Union Jack
for Mr. Eyre. Captain Sturt will be their representative to present it to
him. After that we will adjourn to the opposite rooms to invoke a
blessing on the enterprise. All here, and I believe the whole colony,
give to Mr. Eyre their best wishes, but to good wishes right-minded men
always add fervent prayers. There is an Almighty invisible Being in whose
hands are all events--man may propose, but it is for God only to
dispose--let us therefore implore his protection."

"The Hon. Captain Sturt then received a very handsome Union Jack, neatly
worked in silk; and presenting it to Mr. Eyre, spoke nearly as follows:--

"It cannot but be gratifying to me to be selected on such an occasion as
this, to perform so prominent a part in a duty the last a community can
discharge towards one who, like you, is about to risk your life for its
good. I am to deliver to you this flag, in the name of the ladies who
made it, with their best wishes for your success, and their earnest
prayers for your safety. This noble colour, the ensign of our country,
has cheered the brave on many an occasion. It has floated over every
shore of the known world, and upon every island of the deep. But you have
to perform a very different, and a more difficult duty. You have to carry
it to the centre of a mighty continent, there to leave it as a sign to
the savage that the footstep of civilized man has penetrated so far. Go
forth, then, on your journey, with a full confidence in the goodness of
Providence; and may Heaven direct your steps to throw open the fertility
of the interior, not only for the benefit of the Province, but of our
native country; and may the moment when you unfurl this colour for the
purpose for which it was given to you, be as gratifying to you as the
present."

"Mr. Eyre, visibly and deeply affected, returned his warmest thanks, and
expressed his sense of the kindness he had received on the present
occasion. He hoped to be able to plant the flag he had just received in
the centre of this continent. If he failed, he should, he hoped, have the
cousciousness of having earnestly endeavoured to succeed. To His
Excellency the Governor, his sincere thanks were due for the promptitude
with which so much effectual assistance to the expedition had been
rendered. Mr. Eyre also begged leave to return his thanks to the
Colonists who had so liberally supported the enterprise; and concluded by
expressing his trust that, through the blessing of God, he would be
enabled to return to them with a favourable report of the country into
which he was about to penetrate.

"The company then returned to the library and drawing-room, where the
Colonial Chaplain, the Rev. C. B. Howard, offered up an affecting and
appropriate prayer, and at twelve precisely, Mr. Eyre, accompanied by a
very large concourse of gentlemen on horseback, left Government House,
under the hearty parting cheers of the assembled party."

Leaving Government House under the hearty cheers of the very large
concourse assembled to witness our departure outside the grounds; Mr.
Scott, myself, and two native boys (the drays having previously gone on)
proceeded on horseback on our route, accompanied by a large body of
gentlemen on horseback, and ladies in carriages, desirous of paying us
the last kind tribute of friendship by a farewell escort of a few miles.

At first leaving Government House we had moved on at a gentle canter, but
were scarcely outside the gates, before the cheering of the people, the
waving of hats, and the rush of so many horses, produced an emulation in
the noble steeds that almost took from us the control of their pace, as
we dashed over the bridge and up the hill in North Adelaide--it was a
heart-stirring and inspiriting scene. Carried away by the enthusiasm of
the moment, our thoughts and feelings were wrought to the highest state
of excitement.

The time passed rapidly away, the first few miles were soon travelled
over,--then came the halt,--the parting,--the last friendly cheer;--and
we were alone in the wilderness. Our hearts were too full for
conversation, and we wended on our way slowly and in silence to overtake
the advance party.




Chapter II.



FIRST NIGHT'S ENCAMPMENT WITH PARTY--REFLECTIONS--ARRIVAL AT SHEEP
STATION--RE-ARRANGEMENT OF LOADS--METHOD OF CARRYING FIRE-ARMS--COMPLETE
THE NUMBER OF THE PARTY--THEIR NAMES--MOVE ONWARDS--VALLEY OF THE
LIGHT--EXTENSIVE PLAINS--HEAD OF THE GILBERT--SCARCITY OF
FIREWOOD--GRASSY WELL-WATERED DISTRICTS--THE HILL AND HUTT
RIVERS--INDICATIONS OF CHANGE GOING ON IN APPEARANCE AND CHARACTER OF THE
COUNTRY, TRACEABLE IN THE REMAINS OF TIMBER IN THE PLAINS AND IN THE
OPENINGS AMONG SCRUBS--THE BROUGHTON--REEDY WATERCOURSE--CAMPBELL'S
RANGE--COURSE OF THE BROUGHTON.


June 18.--The party having left Adelaide late in the forenoon, and it
being the first day of working the horses, I did not wish to make a long
stage; having followed the usual road, therefore, as far as the little
Parra, the drays were halted upon that watercourse (after a journey of
about twelve miles), and we then proceeded to bivouac for the first time.
For the first time too since I had engaged to command the expedition, I
had leisure to reflect upon the prospects before me.

During the hurry and bustle of preparation, and in the enthusiasm of
departure, my mind was kept constantly on the stretch, and I had no time
for calm and cool consideration, but now that all was over and the
journey actually commenced, I was again able to collect my thoughts and
to turn my most serious and anxious attention to the duty I had
undertaken. The last few days had been so fraught with interest and
occupation, and the circumstances of our departure this morning, had been
so exciting, that when left to my own reflections, the whole appeared to
me more like a dream than a reality. The change was so great, the
contrast so striking. From the crowded drawing room of civilized life, I
had in a few hours been transferred to the solitude and silence of the
wilds, and from being but an unit in the mass of a large community, I had
suddenly become isolated with regard to the world, which, so far as I was
concerned, consisted now only of the few brave men who accompanied me,
and who were dependant for their very existence upon the energy and
perseverance and prudence with which I might conduct the task assigned to
me. With this small, but gallant and faithful band, I was to attempt to
penetrate the vast recesses of the interior of Australia, to try to lift
up the veil which has hitherto shrouded its mysteries from the researches
of the traveller, and to endeavour to plant that flag which has floated
proudly in all the known parts of the habitable globe, in the centre of a
region as yet unknown, and unvisited save by the savage or the wild
beast.

Those only who have been placed in similar circumstances can at all
appreciate the feelings which they call forth. The hopes, fears, and
anxieties of the leader of an exploring party, must be felt to be
understood, when he is about to commence an undertaking which MUST be one
of difficulty and danger, and which MAY be of doubtful and even fatal
result.

The toil, care, and anxiety devolving upon him are of no ordinary
character; everyday removes him further from the pale of civilization and
from aid or assistance of any kind--whilst each day too diminishes the
strength of his party and the means at his command, and thus renders him
less able to provide against or cope with the difficulties that may beset
him. A single false step, the least error of judgment, or the slightest
act of indiscretion might plunge the expedition into inextricable
difficulty or danger, or might defeat altogether the object in view.
Great indeed was the responsibility I had undertaken--and most fully did
I feel sensible of the many and anxious duties that devolved upon me. The
importance and interest attached to the solution of the geographical
problem connected with the interior of Australia, would, I well knew,
engage the observation of the scientific world. If I were successful, the
accomplishment of what I had undertaken would more than repay me in
gratification for the toil and hazard of the enterprise--but if otherwise
I could not help feeling that, however far the few friends who knew me
might give me credit for exertion or perseverance, the world at large
would be apt to reason from the result, and to make too little allowance
for difficulties and impediments, of the magnitude of which from
circumstances they could be but incompetent judges.

With such thoughts as these, and revolving in my mind our future plans,
our chances of success or otherwise, it will not be deemed surprising,
that notwithstanding the fatigue and care I had gone through during the
last fortnight of preparation, sleep should long remain a stranger to my
pillow; and when all nature around me was buried in deep repose I alone
was waking and anxious.

From former experience in a personal examination of the nature of the
country north of the head of Spencer's Gulf, during the months of May and
June, 1839, I had learnt that the farther the advance to the north, the
more dreary and desolate the appearance of the country became, and the
greater was the difficulty, both of finding and of obtaining access to
either water or grass. The interception of the singular basin of Lake
Torrens, which I had discovered formed a barrier to the westward, and
commencing near the head of Spencer's Gulf, was connected with it by a
narrow channel of mud and water. This lake apparently increased in width
as it stretched away to the northward, as far as the eye could reach,
when viewed from the farthest point attained by me in 1839, named by
Colonel Gawler, Mount Eyre. Dreary as had been the view I then obtained,
and cheerless as was the prospect from that elevation, there was one
feature in the landscape, which still gave me hope that something might
be done in that direction, and had in fact been my principal inducement
to select a line nearly north from Spencer's Gulf, for our route on the
present expedition; this feature was the continuation, and the
undiminished elevation of the chain of hills forming Flinders range,
running nearly parallel with the course of Lake Torrens, and when last
seen by me stretching far to the northward and eastward in a broken and
picturesque outline.

It was to this chain of hills that I now looked forward as the
stepping-stone to the interior. In its continuation were centered all my
hopes of success, because in its recesses alone could I hope to obtain
water and grass for my party. The desert region I had seen around its
base, gave no hope of either, and though the basin of Lake Torrens
appeared to be increasing so much in extent to the northward, I had seen
nothing to indicate its terminating within any practicable distance, in a
deep or navigable water. True the whole of the drainage from Flinders
range, as far as was yet known, emptied into its basin, but such was the
arid and sandy nature of the region through which it passed, that a great
part of the moisture was absorbed, whilst the low level of the basin of
the lake, apparently the same as that of the sea itself, forbade even the
most distant hope of the water being fresh, should any be found in its
bed.

It was in reflections and speculations such as these, that many hours of
the night of my first encampment with the party passed away. The kindness
of the Governor and our many friends had been so unbounded; their anxiety
for our safety and comfort so great; their good wishes for our success so
earnest, and their confidence in our exertions, so implicit, that I could
not but look forward with apprehension, lest the success of our efforts
might not equal what our gratitude desired, and even now I began to be
fearful that the high expectations raised by the circumstances of our
departure might not be wholly realised.

We had fairly commenced our arduous undertaking, and though the party
might appear small for the extent of the exploration contemplated, yet no
expedition could have started under more favourable or more cheering
auspices; provided with every requisite which experience pointed out as
desirable, and with every comfort which excess of kindness could suggest,
we left too, with a full sense of the difficulties before us, but with a
firm determination to overcome them, if possible. And I express but the
sentiments of the whole party when I say, that we felt the events of the
day of our departure, and the recollection of the anxiety and interest
with which our friends were anticipating our progress, and hoping for our
success, would be cherished as our watchword in the hour of danger, and
bethe incentive to perseverance and labour, when more than ordinary
trials should call for our exertions. The result we were willing to leave
in the hands of that Almighty Being whose blessing had been implored upon
our undertaking, and to whom we looked for guidance and protection in all
our wanderings.

June 19.--On mustering the horses this morning it was found, that one or
two had been turned loose without hobbles, and being fresh and high fed
from the stables, they gave us a great deal of trouble before we could
catch them, but at last we succeeded, and the party moved on upon the
road to Gawler town, arriving there (12 miles) about noon; at this place
we halted for half an hour, at the little Inn to lunch, and this being
the last opportunity we should have of entering a house for many months
to come, I was anxious to give my men the indulgence. After lunch I again
moved on the party for five miles, crossing and encamping upon, a branch
of the Parra or Gawler, where we had abundance of good water and grass.

June 20.--Having a long stage before us to-day, I moved on the party very
early, leaving all roads, and steering across the bush to my sheep
stations upon the Light. We passed through some very fine country, the
verdant and beautiful herbage of which, at this season of the year,
formed a carpet of rich and luxuriant vegetation. Having crossed the
grassy and well wooded ranges which confine the waters of the Light to
the westward, we descended to the plain, and reached my head station
about sunset, after a long and heavy stage of twenty miles--here we were
to remain a couple of days to break up the station, as the sheep were
sold, and the overseer and one of the men were to join the Expedition
party.

The night set in cold and rainy, but towards morning turned to a severe
frost; one of the native boys who had been sent a short cut to the
station ahead of the drays, lost his road and was out in the cold all
night--an unusual circumstance, as a native will generally keep almost as
straight a direction through the wilds as a compass will point.

Sunday, June 21.--We remained in camp. The day was cold, the weather
boisterous, with showers of rain at intervals, and the barometer falling;
our delay enabled me to write letters to my various friends, before
finally leaving the occupied parts of the country, I was glad too, to
give the horses and men a little rest after the fatigue they had endured
yesterday in crossing the country.

June 22.--As we still remained in camp, the day being dark and cloudy
with occasional showers, I took the opportunity of having one of the
drays boarded close up, and of re-arranging the loads, oiling the
fire-arms, and grinding the axes, spades, etc.; we completed our
complement of tools, tents, tarpaulins, etc. from those at the station,
and had everything arranged on the drays in the most convenient manner,
always having in view safety in carriage and facility of access; the best
place for the fire-arms I found to be at the outside of the sides, the
backs, or the fronts, of those drays that were close boarded.

By nailing half a large sheepskin with the wool on in any of these
positions, a soft cushion was formed for the fire-arms to rest against,
they were then fixed in their places by a loop of leather for the muzzle,
and a strap and buckle for the stock; whilst the other half of the
sheepskin which hung loose, doubled down in front of the weapons. between
them and the wheel, effectually preserving them from both dirt and wet,
and at the same time keeping them in a position, where they could be got
at in a moment, by simply lifting up the skin and unbuckling the strap;
by this means too, all danger or risk was avoided, which usually exists
when the fire-arms are put on or off the drays in a loaded state. I have
myself formerly seen carbines explode more than once from the cocks
catching something, in being pulled out from, or pushed in amidst the
load of a dray, independently of the difficulty of getting access to them
in cases of sudden emergency; a still better plan than the one I adopted,
would probably be to have lockers made for the guns, to hang in similar
places, and in a somewhat similar manner to that I have described, but in
this case it would be necessary for the lockers to be arranged and fitted
at the time the drays or carts were made.

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