Arthur T. Quiller Couch - "The Splendid Spur"

Thomas H. Huxley - "Yeast"

William Shakespeare - "The Tragedie of King Lear"

Jack London - "The Son of the Wolf"

Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central

E >> Edward John Eyre >> Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central




CHAPTER III.
FOOD--HOW PROCURED--HOW PREPARED--LIMITATION AS TO AGE, etc.

CHAPTER IV.
PROPERTY IN
LAND--DWELLINGS--WEAPONS--IMPLEMENTS--GOVERNMENT--CUSTOMS--SOCIAL
RELATIONS--MARRIAGE--NOMENCLATURE

CHAPTER V.
CEREMONIES AND SUPERSTITIONS--FORMS OF BURIAL--MOURNING
CUSTOMS--RELIGIOUS IDEAS--EMPIRICS, etc.

CHAPTER VI.
NUMBERS--DISEASES--CAUSE OF LIMITED POPULATION--CRIMES AGAINST
EUROPEANS--AMONGST THEMSELVES--TREATMENT OF EACH OTHER IN DISTRIBUTION OF
FOOD, etc.

CHAPTER VII.
LANGUAGE, DIALECTS, CUSTOMS, etc.--GENERAL SIMILARITY THROUGHOUT THE
CONTINENT--CAUSES OF DIFFERENCES--ROUTE BY WHICH THE NATIVES HAVE
OVERSPREAD THE COUNTRY, etc.

CHAPTER VIII.
EFFECTS OF CONTACT WITH EUROPEANS--ATTEMPTS AT IMPROVEMENT AND
CIVILIZATION--ACCOUNT OF SCHOOLS--DEFECTS OF THE SYSTEM

CHAPTER IX.
SUGGESTIONS FOR IMPROVEMENT OF SYSTEM ADOPTED TOWARDS THE NATIVES 458

* * * * *



EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES OF NATIVE ORNAMENTS, WEAPONS, IMPLEMENTS, AND
WORKS OF INDUSTRY



LIST OF PLATES.--VOL. II.

Distribution of flour at Moorunde, G. Hamilton
Arrival at King George's Sound, J. Neill
Plate I.--Native Ornaments
Kangaroo Dance of King George's Sound, J. Neill
Woodcut of a Standard used in the Dances performed by day
Plate II. Native Weapons
Plate III. Native Weapons
Plate IV. Native Implements
Plate V. Native Works of Industry
Mode of disposing of the Dead of the Lower Murray
Murray River at Moorunde
Plate VI. Miscellaneous Native Articles
1. Head of war spear of the North Coast, barbed for 3 feet, total length
9 1/2 feet.
2. Head of fish spear of the North Coast, barbed for 18 inches, total
length 8 3/4 feet.
2. Head of spear of the North Coast, barbed for 18 inches, total length
8 3/4 feet.
4. Head of war spear of the North Coast, with head of quartz, 6 inches,
total length 9 1/2 feet.
5. Head of war spear of the North Coast, with head of slate, 6 inches,
total length 9 1/2 feet.
6. Two handed sword of hard wood, North Coast, 3 1/2 feet.
7. Throwing stick of North Coast, 3 feet 1 inch.
8. Throwing stick of North Coast, very pliant, 3-16ths of an inch only
thick, 3 feet 6 inches.
9. Broad short throwing stick, 2 feet 2 inches.
10. An ornament of feathers for the neck.
11. Five Kangaroo teeth in a bunch, worn round the neck.
12. A net waistband or belt, from Murray River, 8 feet long 6 inches
wide.
13. Plume of feathers tied to thin wand, and stuck in the hair at
dances--New South Wales.
14. War club.
15. War club.
16. Bag of close net work.
17. Band for forehead of Swan's down.
18. Root end of a kind of grass, used as pins for pegging out skins.
19. Sorcerer's stick.
20. Sorcerer's stick.





VOLUME I




JOURNAL OF EXPEDITIONS IN CENTRAL AND SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA IN 1840.



Chapter I.


ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION--CONTEMPLATED EXPLORATION TO THE
WESTWARD--MEETING OF THE COLONISTS AND SUBSCRIPTIONS ENTERED INTO FOR
THAT PURPOSE--NOTES ON THE UNFAVOURABLE NATURE OF THE COUNTRY TO THE
WESTWARD, AND PROPOSAL THAT THE NORTHERN INTERIOR SHOULD BE EXAMINED
INSTEAD--MAKE AN OFFER TO THE GOVERNOR TO CONDUCT SUCH AN
EXPEDITION--CAPTAIN STURT'S LECTURE--INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR,
ARRANGEMENT OF PLANS--PREPARATION OF OUTFIT--COST OF EXPEDITION--NAME A
DAY FOR DEPARTURE--PUBLIC BREAKFAST AND COMMENCEMENT OF THE UNDERTAKING.

Before entering upon the account of the expedition sent to explore the
interior of Australia, to which the following pages refer, it may perhaps
be as well to advert briefly to the circumstances which led to the
undertaking itself, that the public being fully in possession of the
motives and inducements which led me, at a very great sacrifice of my
private means, to engage in an exploration so hazardous and arduous, and
informed of the degree of confidence reposed in me by those interested in
the undertaking, and the sanguine hopes and high expectations that were
formed as to the result, may be better able to judge how far that
confidence was well placed, and how far my exertions were commensurate
with the magnitude of the responsibility I had undertaken.

I have felt it the more necessary to allude to this subject now, because
I was in some measure at the time instrumental in putting a stop to a
contemplated expedition to the westward, and of thus unintentionally
interfering with the employment of a personal friend of my own, than whom
no one could have been more fitted to command an undertaking of the kind,
from his amiable disposition, his extensive experience, and his general
knowledge and acquirements.

Upon returning, about the middle of May 1840, from a visit to King
George's Sound and Swan River, I found public attention in Adelaide
considerably engrossed with the subject of an overland communication
between Southern and Western Australia. Captain Grey, now the Governor of
South Australia, had called at Adelaide on his way to England from King
George's Sound, and by furnishing a great deal of interesting information
relative to Western Australia, and pointing out the facilities that
existed on its eastern frontier, as far as it was then known, for the
entrance of stock from the Eastward, had called the attention of the
flock-masters of the Colony to the importance of opening a communication
between the two places, with a view to the extension of their pastoral
interests. The notes of Captain Grey, referring to this subject, were
published in the South Australian Register newspaper of the 28th March,
1840. On the 30th of the same month, a number of gentlemen, many of whom
were owners of large flocks and herds, met together, for the purpose of
taking the matter into consideration, and the result of this conference
was the appointment of a Committee, whose duty it was to report upon the
best means of accomplishing the object in view. On the 4th, 7th, and 9th
of April other meetings were held, and the results published in the South
Australian Register, of the 11th April, as follows:--


OVERLAND ROUTE TO WESTERN AUSTRALIA.

At a Meeting of the Committee for making arrangements for an expedition
to explore an overland route to Western Australia, held the 7th of April,
the Hon. the Surveyor-general in the chair, the following resolutions
were agreed to:--

That a communication be made to the Government of Western Australia,
detailing the objects contemplated by this Committee, and further stating
that the assistance of the Government of this province has been obtained.

That a communication be made to the Hon. the Surveyor-general, the Hon.
the Advocate-general the Hon. G. Leake, Esq. of Western Australia, with a
request that they will form a committee in conjunction with such settlers
as may feel interested in the same undertaking, for the purpose of
collecting private subscriptions, and co-operating with this committee.

Resolved, that similar communications be made to the Government of New
South Wales, and to the following gentlemen who are requested to act as a
committee with the same power as that of Western Australia: Hon. E. Deas
Thomson, Colonial Secretary; William Macarthur, Esq.; Captain Parker; P.
King, R.N.; Stuart Donaldson, Esq.; George Macleay, Esq.; Charles
Campbell, Esq.

That this Committee would propose, in order to facilitate the progress of
the expedition, that depots be formed at convenient points on the route;
that it is proposed to make Fowler's Bay the first depot on the route
from Adelaide, and to leave it to the Government of Western Australia to
decide upon the sites which their local knowledge may point out as the
most eligible for similar stations, as far to the eastward as may appear
practicable.

That a subscription list be immediately opened in Adelaide to collect
funds in aid of the undertaking.

That R. F. Newland, Esq., be requested to act as Treasurer to this
Committee, and that subscriptions be received at the Banks of Australasia
and South Australia.

E. C. FROME, Chairman.
CHAS. BONNEY, Secretary.


The Committee again met on the 9th April--the Hon. the Assistant
Commissioner in the chair. It was resolved that the following statement
head the subscription list:--


Several meetings having taken place at Adelaide of persons interested in
the discovery of an overland route to Western Australia, and it being the
general opinion of those meetings that such an enterprise would very
greatly benefit the colonists of Eastern, Southern, and Western
Australia, it was determined to open subscriptions for the furtherance of
this most desirable object under the direction of the following
Committee:

G. A. Anstey, Esq. John Knott, Esq.
Charles Bonney, Esq. Duncan M'Farlane, Esq.
John Brown, Esq. David McLaren, Esq.
Edward Eyre, Esq. John Morphett, Esq.
John Finniss, Esq. Chas. Mann, Esq.
J. H. Fisher, Esq. R. F. Newland, Esq.
Lieutenant Frome, Dr. Rankin. Esq.
Surveyor-general G. Stevenson, Esq.
O. Gilles, Esq. F. Stephens, Esq.
Captain Grey W. Smilie, Esq.
J. B. Hack, Esq. T. B. Strangwaya, Esq.
G. Hamilton, Esq. Capt. Sturt, Ass. Com.
Ephraim Howe, Esq. John Walker, Esq.

The very great importance of the undertaking as leading to results, and
in all probability to discoveries, the benefits of which are at present
unforeseen, but which, like the opening of the Murray to this Province,
may pave the way to a high road from hence to Western Australia, will, it
is hoped meet with that support from the public which undertakings of
great national interest deserve, and which best evince the enterprise and
well-doing of a rising colony.

That Captain Grey, being about to embark for England, the Committee
cannot allow him to quit these shores without expressing their regret
that his stay has been so short, and the sense they entertain of the
great interest he has evinced in the welfare of the colony, and the
disinterested support he has given an enterprise which is likely to lead
to such generally beneficial results as that under consideration.

CHAS. STURT, Chairman.
CHAS. BONNEY, Secretary.


LIST OF SUBSCRIPTIONS RECEIVED YESTERDAY.


The Government of South Australia 200 pounds
His Excellency the Governor
(absent at Port Lincoln)
and the Colonists 349 pounds 10 shillings


Such was the state in which I found the question on my return from
Western Australia. All had been done that was practicable, until answers
were received from the other Colonies, replying to the applications for
assistance and co-operation in the proposed undertaking.

Having been always greatly interested in the examination of this vast but
comparatively unknown continent, and having already myself been
frequently engaged in long and harassing explorations, it will not be
deemed surprising that I should at once have turned my attention to the
subject so prominently occupying the public mind. I have stated that the
principal object proposed to be attained by the expedition to the
westward, was that of opening a route for the transit of stock from one
colony to the other--nay it was even proposed and agreed to by a majority
of the gentlemen attending the public meeting that the first party of
exploration should be accompanied by cattle. Now, from my previous
examination of the country to the westward of the located parts of South
Australia, I had in 1839 fully satisfied myself, not only of the
difficulty, but of the utter impracticability of opening an overland
route for stock in that direction, and I at once stated my opinion to
that effect, and endeavoured to turn the general attention from the
Westward to the North, as being the more promising opening, either for
the discovery of a good country, or of an available route across the
continent. The following extract, from a paper by me on the subject, was
published in the South Australian Register of the 23rd May, 1840, and
contains my opinion at that time of the little prospect there was of any
useful result accruing from the carrying out of the proposed expedition
to the Westward:--


"It may now, therefore, be a question for those who are interested in the
sending an expedition overland to the Swan River to consider what are
likely to be the useful results from such a journey. In a geographical
point of view it will be exceedingly interesting to know the character of
the intervening country between this colony and theirs, and to unfold the
secrets hidden by those lofty, and singular cliffs at the head of the
Great Bight, and so far, it might perhaps be practicable--since it is
possible that a light party might, in a favourable season, force their
way across. As regards the transit of stock, however, my own conviction
is that it is quite impracticable. The vast extent of desert country to
the westward--the scarcity of grass--the denseness of the scrub--and the
all but total absence of water, even in the most favourable seasons, are
in themselves, sufficient bars to the transit of stock, even to a
distance we are already acquainted with. I would rather, therefore, turn
the public attention to the Northward, as being the most probable point
from which discoveries of importance may be made, or such as are likely
to prove beneficial to this and the other colonies, and from which it is
possible the veil may be lifted, from the still unknown and mysterious
interior of this vast continent."


On the 27th I dined with His Excellency the Governor, and had a long
conversation with him on the subject of the proposed Western Expedition,
and on the exploration of the Northern Interior. With his usual anxiety
to promote any object which he thought likely to benefit the colony, and
advance the cause of science, His Excellency expressed great interest in
the examination of the Northern Interior, and a desire that an attempt
should be made to penetrate its recesses during the ensuing season.

As I had been the means of diverting public attention from a Western to a
Northern exploration, so was I willing to encounter myself the risks and
toils of the undertaking I had suggested, and I therefore at once
volunteered to His Excellency to take the command of any party that might
be sent out, to find one-third of the number of horses required, and pay
one-third of the expenses. Two days after this a lecture was delivered at
the Mechanics' Institute in Adelaide, by Captain Sturt, upon the
Geography and Geology of Australia, at the close of which that gentleman
acquainted the public with the proposal I had made to the Governor, and
the sanction and support which His Excellency was disposed to give it.
The following extract is from Captain Sturt's address, and shews the
disinterested and generous zeal which that talented and successful
traveller was ever ready to exert on behalf of those who were inclined to
follow the career of enterprise and ambition in which he had with such
distinction led the way.


"Before I conclude, however, having drawn your attention to the science
of geology, I would for a moment dwell on that of geography, and the
benefit the pursuit and study of it has been to mankind. To geography we
owe all our knowledge of the features of the earth's surface, our
intercourse with distant nations, and our enjoyments of numberless
comforts and luxuries. The sister sciences of geography and hydrography
have enabled us to pursue our way to any quarter of the habitable and
uninhabitable world. With the history of geography, moreover, our
proudest feelings are associated. Where are there names dearer to us than
those of the noble and devoted Columbus, of Sebastian Cabot, of Cook, of
Humboldt, and of Belzoni and La Perouse? Where shall we find the generous
and heroic devotion of the explorers of Africa surpassed? Of Denham, of
Clapperton, of Oudeny, and of the many who have sacrificed their valuable
lives to the pestilence of that climate or to the ferocity of its
inhabitants?--And where shall we look for the patient and persevering
endurance of Parry, of Franklin, and of Back, in the northern regions of
eternal snow? If, ladies and gentlemen, fame were to wreathe a crown to
the memory of such men, there would not be a leaf in it without a name.
The region of discovery was long open to the ambitious, but the energy
and perseverance of man has now left but little to be done in that once
extensive and honourable field. The shores of every continent have been
explored--the centre of every country has been penetrated save that of
Australia--thousands of pounds have been expended in expeditions to the
Poles--but this country, round which a girdle of civilization is forming,
is neglected, and its recesses, whether desert or fertile, are unsought
and unexplored. What is known of the interior is due rather to private
enterprise than to public energy. Here then there is still a field for
the ambitious to tread. Over the centre of this mighty continent there
hangs a veil which the most enterprising might be proud to raise. The
path to it, I would venture to say, is full of difficulty and danger; and
to him who first treads it much will be due. I, who have been as far as
any, have seen danger and difficulty thicken around me as I advanced, and
I cannot but anticipate the same obstacles to the explorer, from whatever
point of these extreme shores he may endeavour to force his way.
Nevertheless, gentlemen, I shall envy that man who shall first plant the
flag of our native country in the centre of our adopted one. There is not
one deed in those days to be compared with it, and to whoever may
undertake so praiseworthy and so devoted a task, I wish that success,
which Heaven sometimes vouchsafes to those who are actuated by the first
of motives--the public good; and the best of principles--a reliance on
Providence. I would I myself could undertake such a task, but fear that
may not be. However, there is a gentleman among us, who is auxious to
undertake such a journey. He has calculated that in taking a party five
hundred miles into the interior, the expense would not be more than 300
pounds and the price of ten horses. At a meeting held some time ago, on
this very subject, about half that sum was subscribed.--His Excellency
the Governor has kindly promised to give 100 pounds, and two horses--and
I think we may very soon make up the remainder; and thus may set out an
expedition which may explore the as yet unknown interior of this vast
continent, which may be the means, by discovery, of conferring a lasting
benefit on the colony--and hand down to posterity the name of the person
who undertakes it."


On the same day I received a note from the private secretary, stating
that the Governor wished to see me, and upon calling on His Excellency I
had a long and interesting interview on the subject of the expedition, in
the course of which arrangements were proposed and a plan of operations
entered into. I found in His Excellency every thing that was kind and
obliging. Sincerely desirous to confer a benefit upon the colony over
which he presided, he was most anxious that the expedition should be
fitted out in as complete and efficient a manner as possible, and to
effect this every assistance in his power was most frankly and freely
offered. In addition to the sanction and patronage of the government and
the contribution of 100 pounds, towards defraying the expenses, His
Excellency most kindly offered me the selection of any two horses I
pleased, from among those belonging to the police, and stated, that if I
wished for the services of any of the men in the public employment they
should be permitted to accompany me on the journey. The Colonial cutter,
WATERWITCH, was also most liberally offered, and thankfully accepted, to
convey a part of the heavy stores and equipment to the head of Spencer's
Gulf, that so far, the difficulties of the land journey to that point, at
least, might be lessened.

I was now fairly pledged to the undertaking, and as the winter was
rapidly advancing, I became most anxious to get all preparations made as
soon as possible to enable me to take advantage of the proper season. On
the first of June I commenced the necessary arrangements for organizing
my party, and getting ready the equipment required. To assist me in these
duties, and to accompany me as a companion in the journey, I engaged Mr.
Edward Bate Scott, an active, intelligent and steady young friend, who
had already been a voyage with me to Western Australia, and had travelled
with me overland from King George's Sound to Swan River.

Meetings of the colonists interested in the undertaking were again held
on the 2nd and 5th of June, at which subscriptions were entered into for
carrying out the object of the expedition; and a brief outline of my
plans was given by the Chairman, Captain Sturt, in the following extract
from his address.


"The Chairman went on to state, that Mr. Eyre would first proceed to Lake
Torrens and examine it, and then penetrate as far inland in a northerly
direction as would be found practicable. With regard to an observation
which he (the Chairman) had made on Friday evening, regarding this
continent having been formerly an archipelago, he stated, that he was of
opinion that a considerable space of barren land in all probability
existed between this district and what had formerly been the next island.
This space was likely to be barren, though of course it would be
impossible to say how far it extended. He had every reason to believe,
from what he had seen of the Australian continent, that at some distance
to the northward, a large tract of barren country would be found, or
perhaps a body of water, beyond which, a good country would in all
probability exist. The contemplated expedition, he hoped would set
supposition at rest--and as the season was most favourable, and Mr. Eyre
had had much personal experience in exploring, he had no doubt but the
expedition would be successful. The eyes of all the Australasian
colonies--nay, he might say of Britain--are on the colonists of South
Australia in this matter; and he felt confident that the result would be
most beneficial, not only to this Province, but also to New South Wales
and the Australian colonies generally--for the success of one settlement
is, in a measure, the success of the others."


An advertisement, published in the Adelaide Journals of 13th June, shewed
the progress that had been made towards collecting subscriptions for the
undertaking, and the spirited and zealous manner in which the colonists
entered into the project. Up to that date the sum of 541 pounds 17
shillings 5 pence had been collected and paid into the Bank of Australia.

Having now secured the necessary co-operation and assistance, my
arrangements proceeded rapidly and unremittingly, whilst the kindness of
the Governor, the Committee of colonists, my private friends and the
public generally, relieved me of many difficulties and facilitated my
preparations in a manner such as I could hardly have hoped or expected.
Every one seemed interested in the undertaking, and anxious to promote
its success; zeal and energy and spirit were infused among all connected
with it, and everything went on prosperously.

In addition to the valuable aid which I received from his Excellency the
Governor, I was particularly indebted to Captain Frome the
Surveyor-general, Captain Sturt the Assistant-commissioner, and Thomas
Gilbert, Esq. the Colonial storekeeper, for unceasing kindness and
attention, and for much important assistance rendered to me by the loan
of books and instruments, the preparation of charts, and the fitting up
of drays, etc. etc.

Captain Frome, too, now laid me under increased obligations by giving up
his own servant, Corporal Coles of the Royal Sappers and Miners, upon my
expressing a wish to take him with me, and the Governor sanctioning his
going.

This man had accompanied Captain Grey in all his expeditions on the
North-west coast of New Holland--and had been highly recommended by that
traveller; he was a wheelwright by trade, and being a soldier was likely
to prove a useful and valuable addition to my party; and I afterwards
found him a most obliging, willing and attentive person.

To the Governor and to the Committee of colonists I owe many thanks, for
the very flattering and gratifying confidence they reposed in me, a
confidence which left me as unrestricted in my detail of outfit and
equipment, as I was unfettered in my plan of operations in the field.
This enabled me to avoid unnecessary delays, and to hasten every thing
forward as rapidly as possible, so that when requested by the Governor to
name a day for my departure I was enabled to fix upon the 18th of June.

Having already done all in their power to forward and assist the
equipment and arrangement of the expedition, the Governor and Mrs. Gawler
were determined still further to increase the heavy debt of gratitude
which I was already under to them, by inviting myself and party to meet
the friends of the expedition at Government House on the morning of our
departure, that by a public demonstration of interest in our welfare, we
might be encouraged in the undertaking upon which we were about to
enter--and might be stimulated to brave the perils to which we should
shortly be exposed, by a remembrance of the sympathy expressed in our
behalf, and the pledge we should come under to the public upon leaving
the abode of civilised man, for the unknown and trackless region which
lay before us.

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