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Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central

E >> Edward John Eyre >> Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central




The quality of the water at the well, was now beginning to affect the
health of the whole party; and on the 19th and 20th I put into execution
my resolution of removing to Fowler's Bay, where we again enjoyed the
luxury of good water. Upon digging up the things we had left buried, we
found them perfectly dry. On the 21st, I sent Mr. Scott down to the bay,
to see if the cutter had come back, but she had not. On his return, he
brought up a few fish he had caught, which, added to ten pigeons, shot by
himself and the native boys, at the sand-hills, gave a little variety to
our fare; indeed, for several days, after taking up our old position at
Point Fowler, we were well supplied both with fish and pigeons.

Time passed gradually away until the evening of the 25th, when a party of
natives once more came up, and took up their abode near us--three were of
those who had accompanied us all the way from Denial Bay, and some others
had also been with us before. On the 26th, I went down myself to Fowler's
Bay to look out for the cutter, which we now daily expected. Just as I
arrived at the beach she came rounding into the bay, and Mr. Scott and
myself got into our little boat, and pulled off to her, though with great
difficulty, the wind blowing very fresh and dead against us, with the sea
running high. We had three miles to go, and for a long time it was very
doubtful whether we should succeed in reaching the vessel; our utmost
efforts appearing barely to enable us to keep our ground. I was myself,
at the best, not very skilful in using an oar, and neither of us had had
much practice in pulling in a heavy sea. However, we got on board after a
good deal of fatigue, and were rewarded by receiving many letters, both
English and Colonial. I found that in returning to Adelaide the
Water-witch had proved so leaky as to be deemed unsafe for further
service on so wild a coast, and that the Governor had, in consequence,
with the promptness and consideration which so eminently distinguished
him, chartered the "HERO," a fine cutter, a little larger than the
WATERWITCH, and placing her under the command of Mr. Germain, had sent
him to our assistance. On board the HERO I was pleased to find the native
from King George's Sound, named Wylie, whom I had sent for, and who was
almost wild with delight at meeting us, having been much disappointed at
being out of the way when I sent for him from Port Lincoln.

After receiving our despatches, and taking Wylie with us, we set sail for
the shore, and then walked up in the evening to our depot; my other two
native boys were greatly rejoiced to find their old friend once more with
them; they had much to tell to, and much to hear from each other, and all
sat up to a late hour. For myself, the many letters I had received, gave
me ample enjoyment and occupation for the night, whilst the large pile of
newspapers from Adelaide, Swan River, and Sydney, promised a fund of
interest for some time to come. Nothing could exceed the kindness and
attention of our friends in Adelaide, who had literally inundated us with
presents of every kind, each appearing to vie with the other in their
endeavours to console us under our disappointments, to cheer us in our
future efforts, and if possible, to make us almost forget that we were in
the wilds. Among other presents I received a fine and valuable
kangaroo-dog from my friend, Captain Sturt, and which had fortunately
arrived safely, and in excellent condition.

The bran and oats which I had applied for had been most liberally
provided, so that by remaining in depot for a few weeks longer, we might
again hope to get our horses into good condition. From his Excellency the
Governor I received a kind and friendly letter, acquainting me that the
HERO was entirely at my disposal within the limits of South Australia,
but that being under charter I could not take her to Cape Arid, or beyond
the boundaries of the province, and requesting, that if I desired further
aid, or to be met any where, at a future time, that I would communicate
with the Government to that effect by the HERO'S return. The whole tenor
of his Excellency's letter evinced a degree of consideration and kindness
that I could hardly have expected amidst the many anxious duties and
onerous responsibilities devolving upon him at this time; and if any
thing could have added to the feelings of gratitude and respect I
entertained towards him, it would be the knowledge, that with the
disinterested generosity of a noble mind, he was giving up a portion of
his valuable time and attention to our plans, our wants, and our safety,
at a time when the circumstances of the colony over which he presided had
beset his own path with many difficulties, and when every day but added
to the annoyances and embarrassments which a sudden reaction in the
progress and prospects of the province necessarily produced.

In the instructions I received relative to the cutter, I have mentioned
that I was restricted to employing her within the limits of the colony of
South Australia, and thus, the plan I had formed of sending our drays and
heavy stores in her to Cape Arid, whilst we proceeded overland ourselves
with pack-horses, was completely overturned, and it became now a matter
of very serious consideration to decide what I should do under the
circumstances. It was impossible for me to take my whole party and the
drays overland through the dreadful country verging upon the Great Bight;
whilst if I took the party, and left the drays, it was equally hopeless
that I could carry upon pack-horses a sufficiency of provisions to last
us to King George's Sound. There remained, then, but two alternatives,
either to break through the instructions I had received with regard to
the HERO, or to reduce my party still further, and attempt to force a
passage almost alone. The first I did not, for many reasons, think myself
justified in doing--the second, therefore, became my DERNIER RESORT, and
I reluctantly decided upon adopting it.

It now became my duty to determine without delay who were to be my
companions in the perilous attempt before me. The first and most painful
necessity impressed upon me by the step I contemplated, was that of
parting with my young friend, Mr. Scott, who had been with me from the
commencement of the undertaking, and who had always been zealous and
active in promoting its interests as far as lay in his power. I knew
that, on an occasion like this, the spirit and enterprise of his
character would prompt in him a wish to remain and share the difficulties
and dangers to which I might be exposed: but I felt that I ought not to
allow him to do so; I had no right to lead a young enthusiastic friend
into a peril from which escape seemed to be all but hopeless; and painful
as it would be to us both to separate under such circumstances, there was
now no other alternative; the path of duty was plain and imperative, and
I was bound to follow it.

On the 28th, I took the opportunity, whilst walking down to the beach
with Mr. Scott, of explaining the circumstances in which I was placed,
and the decision to which I had been forced. He was much affected at the
intelligence, and would fain have remained to share with me the result of
the expedition, whatever that might be; but I dared not consent to it.

The only man left, belonging to the party, was the one who had
accompanied me towards the head of the Great Bight, and suffered so much
from the heat on the 6th January. His experience on that occasion of the
nature of the country, and the climate we were advancing into, had, in a
great measure, damped his ardour for exploring; so that when told that
the expedition, as far as he was concerned, had terminated, and that he
would have to go back to Adelaide with Mr. Scott, he did not express any
regret. I had ever found him a useful and obedient man, and with the
exception of his losing courage under the heat, upon the occasion alluded
to, he had been a hardy and industrious man, and capable of enduring much
fatigue.

The native boys I intended to accompany me in my journey, as they would
be better able to put up with the fatigues and privations we should have
to go through, than Europeans; whilst their quickness of sight, habit of
observation, and skill in tracking, might occasionally be of essential
service to me. The native who had lately joined me from Adelaide, and
whose country was around King George's Sound, would, I hoped, be able to
interpret to any tribes we might meet with, as it appeared to me that
some of the words we had heard in use among the natives of this part of
the coast were very similar to some I had heard among the natives of King
George's Sound. Three natives, however, were more than I required, and I
would gladly have sent the youngest of them back to Adelaide, but he had
been with me several years, and I did not like to send him away whilst he
was willing to remain; besides, he was so young and so light in weight,
that if we were able to get on at all, his presence could cause but
little extra difficulty. I therefore decided upon taking him also.

There remained now only the overseer; a man who had been in my service
for many years, and whose energy, activity, and many useful qualities,
had made him an invaluable servant to me at all times; whilst his
courage, prudence, good conduct, and fidelity, made me very desirous to
have him with me in this last effort to cross to the westward. Having
sent for him, I explained to him most fully the circumstances in which I
was placed, the utter impossibility of taking on the whole party through
so inhospitable a region as that before us, my own firm determination
never to return unsuccessful, but either to accomplish the object I had
in view, or perish in the attempt. I pointed out to him that there were
still eight hundred and fifty miles of an unknown country yet to be
traversed and explored; that, in all probability, this would consist
principally, if not wholly, of an all but impracticable desert. I
reminded him of the fatigues, difficulties, and losses we had already
experienced in attempting to reconnoitre the country only as far as the
head of the Great Bight; and stated to him my own conviction, that from
the knowledge and experience we had already acquired of the nature of the
country; the journey before us must of necessity be a long and harassing
one--one of unceasing toil, privation, and anxiety, whilst, from the
smallness of our party, the probable want of water, and other causes, it
would be one, also, of more than ordinary risk and danger. I then left
him to determine whether he would return to Adelaide, in the cutter, or
remain and accompany me. His reply was, that although he had become tired
of remaining so long away in the wilds, and should be glad when the
expedition had terminated, yet he would willingly remain with me to the
last; and would accompany me to the westward at every hazard.

Our future movements being now arranged, and the division of the party
decided upon, it remained only for me to put my plans into execution. The
prospect of the approaching separation, had cast a gloom over the whole
party, and now that all was finally determined, I felt that the sooner it
was over the better. I lost no time, therefore, in getting up all the
bran and oats from the cutter, and in putting on board of her our drays,
and such stores as we did not require, directing the master to hold
himself in readiness to return to Adelaide immediately.

By the 31st January, every thing was ready; my farewell letters were
written to the kind friends in Adelaide, to whom I owed so much; and my
final report to the Chairman of the Committee, for promoting the
expedition--that expedition being now brought to a close, and its members
disbanded.

In the evening the man and Mr. Scott went on board the cutter, taking
with them our three kangaroo dogs, which the arid nature of the country
rendered it impossible for me to keep. I regretted exceedingly being
compelled to part with the dogs, but it would have been certain
destruction to them to have attempted to take them with me.

The following is a copy of my final report to the Chairman of the
Northern Expedition Committee:--


"Fowler's Bay, 30th Jan., 1841.

"Sir,--By the return of the HERO from Fowler's Bay, I have the honour to
acquaint you, for the information of his Excellency the Governor, and the
colonists interested, with the unsuccessful termination of the expedition
placed under my command, for the purpose of exploring the northern
interior. Since my last report to his Excellency the Governor, containing
an account of two most disastrous attempts to head the Great Australian
Bight, I have, accompanied by one of my native boys, made a third and
more successful one. On this occasion, I with some difficulty advanced
about fifty miles beyond the head of the Great Bight, along the line of
high cliffs described by Flinders, and which have hitherto been supposed
to be composed principally of chalk. I found the country between the head
of Fowler's Bay and the head of the Great Bight to consist of a
succession of sandy ridges, all of which were more or less covered by a
low scrub, and without either grass or water for the last sixty miles.
This tract is of so uneven and heavy a nature that it would be quite
impossible for me to take a loaded dray across it at this very
unfavourable season of the year, and with horses so spiritless and jaded
as ours have become, from the incessant and laborious work they have gone
through during the last seven months. Upon rounding the head of the
Bight, I met with a few friendly natives, who shewed me where both grass
and water was to be procured, at the same time assuring me that there was
no more along the coast for ten of their days' journeys, (probably 100
miles) or where the first break takes place in the long and continuous
line of cliffs which extend so far to the westward of the head of the
Great Bight. Upon reaching these cliffs I felt much disappointed, as I
had long looked forward to some considerable and important change in the
character of the country. There was, however, nothing very remarkable in
their appearance, nor did the features of the country around undergo any
material change. The cliffs themselves struck me as merely exhibiting the
precipitous banks of an almost level country of moderate elevation (three
or four hundred feet) which the violent lash of the whole of the Southern
Ocean was always acting upon and undermining. Their rock formation
consisted of various strata, the upper crust or surface being an oolitic
limestone; below this is an indented concrete mixture of sand, soil,
small pebbles, and shells; beneath this appear immense masses of a coarse
greyish limestone, of which by far the greater portion of the cliffs are
composed; and immediately below these again is a narrow stripe of a
whitish, or rather a cream-coloured substance, lying in horizontal
strata, but which the impracticable nature of the cliffs did not permit
me to examine. After riding for forty-five miles along their summits, I
was in no instance able to descend; their brinks were perfectly steep and
overhanging, and in many places enormous masses appeared severed by deep
cracks from the main land, and requiring but a slight touch to plunge
them into the abyss below. As far as I have yet been along these cliffs,
I have seen nothing in their appearance to lead me to suppose that any
portion of them is composed of chalk. Immediately along their summits,
and for a few hundred yards back, very numerous pieces of pure flint are
lying loosely scattered upon the surface of the limestone. How they
obtained so elevated a position, or whence they are from, may admit,
perhaps, of some speculation. Back from the sea, and as far as the eye
could reach, the country was level and generally open, with some low
prickly bushes and salsolaceous plants growing upon it; here and there
patches of the gum scrub shewed themselves, and among which a few small
grassy openings were interspersed. The whole of this tract was thickly
covered by small land shells, about the size of snail shells--and some of
them somewhat resembling those in shape. There were no sudden depressions
or abrupt elevations anywhere; neither hills, trees, or water were to be
observed; nor was there the least indication of improvement or change in
the general character of this desolate and forbidding region. The natives
we met with at the head of the Bight were very friendly, and readily
afforded us every information we required--as far as we could make them
comprehend our wishes.

"We most distinctly understood from them, that there was no water along
the coast, westerly, for ten of their days' journeys; and that inland,
there was neither fresh nor salt water, hills or timber, as far as they
had ever been; an account which but too well agreed with the opinion I
had myself formed, upon ascertaining that the same dreary, barren region
I had been traversing so long, still continued at a point where I had
ever looked forward to some great and important change taking place in
the features of the country, and from which I had hoped I might
eventually have accomplished the object for which the expedition was
fitted out. Such, however, was not the case; there was not any
improvement in the appearance of the country, or the least indication
that there might be a change for the better, within any practicable
distance. I had already examined the tract of country from the longitude
of Adelaide, to the parallel of almost 130 degrees E. longitude; an
extent comprising nearly 8 1/2 degrees of longitude; without my having
found a single point from which it was possible to penetrate for into the
interior; and I now find myself in circumstances of so embarrassing and
hopeless a character, that I have most reluctantly been compelled to give
up all further idea of contending with obstacles which there is no
reasonable hope of ever overcoming. I have now, therefore, with much
regret completely broken up my small but devoted party. Two of my men
returned to Adelaide in the WATERWITCH, five weeks ago.

"Mr. Scott and another of my men proceed on Monday in the HERO; whilst
myself, my native boys, and the overseer (who has chosen to accompany me)
proceed hence overland to King George's Sound, as soon as our horses are
a little recruited by the abundant supply of forage we received by the
HERO.

"In this undertaking, my young friend Mr. Scott--with his usual spirit
and perseverance--was most anxious to have joined me; but painful as it
has been to refuse, I have felt it my duty, from the nature of the
service, not to comply with his request. It now only remains for me to
return my most sincere thanks to the many friends to whose kindness I
have been so much indebted during the continuance of this long and
anxious undertaking. To his Excellency the Governor I feel that I can
never be sufficiently grateful for the very kind, prompt, and liberal
support and encouragement which I have invariably experienced, and to
which I have been mainly indebted for the means of accomplishing even the
little I have done. To yourself, as chairman, the committee, and the
colonists, by whom the expedition was fitted out, I return my most
sincere acknowledgments for the very great honour done me in appointing
me to the command of an undertaking at once so interesting and
important--for the liberal and kind way in which I have been supported,
and my wishes complied with; and, above all, for the flattering and
encouraging confidence expressed in my abilities and perseverance. To a
conviction of the existence of this confidence in the minds of those by
whom I was appointed, I feel that I owe much of the stimulus that has
sustained and encouraged me under difficulties and disappointments of no
ordinary kind. Deeply as I lament the unsuccessful and unsatisfactory
result of an undertaking from which so much was expected, I have the
cheering consciousness of having endeavoured faithfully to discharge the
trust confided to me; and although from a concurrence of most unfortunate
circumstances which no human prudence could foresee or guard against, and
which the most untiring perseverance has been unable to surmount, I have
not succeeded in effecting the great objects for which this expedition
was fitted out, I would fain hope that our labours have not been
altogether in vain, but that hereafter, some future and more fortunate
traveller, judging from the considerable extent of country we have
examined, and the features it has developed, may, by knowing where the
interior is not practicable, be directed to where it is.

"In concluding my report of our endeavours to penetrate the northern
interior, I beg to express to all who have been connected with the
expedition, my sincere thanks for their zeal and good conduct. In my
young friend, Mr. Scott, I have had a cheerful companion and useful
assistant; whilst in my overseer and men, I have met with a most
praiseworthy readiness and steadiness of conduct, under circumstances and
disappointments that have at once been trying and disheartening.

"I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant,

"EDWARD JOHN EYRE.

"The Chairman of the Committee for promoting the Northern Expedition."


We were now alone, myself, my overseer, and three native boys, with a
fearful task before us, the bridge was broken down behind us, and we must
succeed in reaching King George's Sound, or perish; no middle course
remained. It was impossible for us to be insensible to the isolated and
hazardous position we were in; but this very feeling only nerved and
stimulated us the more in our exertions, to accomplish the duty we had
engaged in; the result we humbly left to that Almighty Being who had
guided and guarded us hitherto, amidst all our difficulties, and in all
our wanderings, and who, whatever he might ordain, would undoubtedly
order every thing for the best.

Our time was now entirely taken up, in the daily routine of the camp,
attending to the sheep and horses, and in making preparations for our
journey. We had a large supply of corn and bran sent for our horses, and
as long as any of this remained, I determined to continue in depot.

In the mean time, the overseer was thoroughly occupied in preparing
pack-saddles, (all of which we had to make) extra bridles, new hobbles,
and in shoeing all the horses. I undertook the duty of new stuffing and
repairing the various saddles, making what extra clothes were required
for myself and the native boys for our journey; weighing out and packing
in small linen bags, all the rations of tea, sugar, etc. which would be
required weekly, preparing strong canvas saddle-bags, making light
oilskins to protect our things from the wet, etc. etc. These many necessary
and important preparations kept us all very busy, and the time passed
rapidly away. On one occasion, I attempted with one of my native boys, to
explore the country due north of Fowler's Bay, but the weather turned out
unfavourable, the wind being from the north-east, and scorchingly hot; I
succeeded, however, in penetrating fully twenty miles in the direction I
had taken, the first ten of which was through a dense heavy scrub, of the
Eucalyptus dumosa, or the tea-tree. Emerging from this, we entered an
open pretty looking country, consisting of grassy plains of great extent,
divided by belts of shrubs and bush; as we advanced the shrubs became
less numerous, the country more open, and salsolaceous plants began to
occupy the place of the grass. Had we been able to continue our
exploration for another day's journey, I have no doubt, from the change
which appeared gradually to be taking place as we advanced north, that
the whole country around would have been one vast level open waste,
without bush or shrub of any kind, and covered by salsolae. I felt
strongly convinced, we were gradually approaching a similar kind of
country to that I had been in between Lake Torrens and Flinders range;
the only difference was that as far as we had yet gone from Fowler's Bay,
the elevation of the country did not appear to have been diminished; its
average height above the level of the sea, I judged to be about 300 feet,
and forming doubtless a continuation of the table land, I had found
existing at the head of the Great Bight. The weather, however, was as
unfavourable as the country, for such researches, at this season of the
year, and the horses I had taken out with me suffered a good deal, even
in the short space of two days, during which I was engaged in this
attempt.

On some occasions the thermometer was 113 degrees in the shade, and
whenever the wind was from the north-east, it was hot and oppressive
beyond all conception. The natives, though occasionally seen, generally
kept away from us during the time we were in depot. One old man alone
(called Mumma) came up to our camp, and remained with us for
several days; he was one of the few who had accompanied us so far from
the neighbourhood of Denial Bay, and seemed to have taken a great fancy
to us. We now endeavoured to reward him for his former services, by
giving him a red shirt, a blanket, and a tomahawk, and whenever we got
our meals he joined us, eating and drinking readily any thing we gave
him--tea, broth, pease soup, mutton, salt pork, rice, damper, sugar,
dried fruits, were all alike to him, nothing came amiss, and he appeared
to grow better in condition every day.

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