Success With Small Fruits
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E. P. Roe >> Success With Small Fruits
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"The rainfall at Boston for the past six years (to 1878), for the five
growing months named, varies from a maximum of 10.5 inches, in August,
1872, to a minimum of 0.65 inch, in June, 1873. During these six years
there was not a single season when we did not suffer more or less from
drought during some portion of the summer. Twenty-one of the thirty
months in question had less rainfall than six inches per month, and
the average of these twenty-one months was about 3.02 inches per
month, or only about half of what was needed. Some of the protracted
seasons of drought were almost entirely rainless for six weeks, during
which the weather was excessively hot and windy, and vegetation
suffered extremely in consequence."
Mr. Philbrick estimates that 27,000 gallons, or 108 tons, of water are
needed per acre at each watering, which, in a dry period, should be
repeated every five days. This enormous quantity leads him to suggest
that--
"before embarking in an enterprise of irrigation, it would be best to
make sure that the source can be depended upon for a sufficient supply
of water in the driest seasons; for it is precisely at such times that
the most water is needed. Ordinary springs and wells, therefore, are
entirely inadequate to furnish water for anything more than a small
patch or garden. The only sources to be depended upon for large areas
are unfailing streams, lakes, and ponds. There are few gardens so
favorably situated that the water can be drawn from canals and ditches
directly from some pond or stream. When this can be done it is by far
the cheapest method; and it is in this way that the extensive
irrigating works of Lombardy, Spain, France, California, and Colorado
are constructed. Where this system is adopted, considerable expense is
required to grade the land into inclined beds, so as to distribute the
water easily and evenly; but, once done, the water is applied at a
very trifling cost--so cheaply that it is used for farm crops in
Lombardy and the South of France."
In most instances, however, our land is so located that we cannot
irrigate it by a natural flow and fall of water. In this case, it may
be distributed by water-carts and by hand. This can be done only on a
very small scale. The cost in time and labor would be much too great
for profitable returns, and the ground would be so beaten and trampled
as to cause much injury. Such methods may answer very well for small
and well-mulched fruit gardens, making the home supply certain and
large, but it is inadequate from a business point of view.
Distributing water through pipes laid underground, beneath the plow,
does not work well at all, practically, and is not in accordance with
nature. Most of the water is wasted.
Mr. Phil brick continues:
"The only method of distributing water much used in gardens where
pumping is practiced is the system of iron pipes laid underground,
with hydrants distant 200 feet asunder, from which the water is
distributed by 100 feet of India rubber hose. This is also the plan
adopted by gardeners who make use of the public water supply."
When practicable, such iron pipes should be carried along ridges and
headlands, so as to let the water flow where we wish it by gravity as
far as possible.
"Where the water has to be distributed by hose and sprinkler it will
be found good economy to use a powerful pump, that will give a head of
at least thirty feet, and to use for distribution pipes of not less
than one and a half inches in diameter; provided, of course, that any
considerable area--an acre or more--is to be watered. Thus, for
example, we will suppose that it is required to water five acres of
land, and that we have near by a never-failing pond or river; we can
locate a steam pump near the river, and, while at work watering, we
load the safety-valve upon the delivering water pipe at fifteen pounds
per square inch, which corresponds to a head of about thirty feet of
water. We have 300 feet of iron pipe, two inches in diameter, and 100
feet of India rubber hose, one and a half inches in diameter, for the
delivery of the water. This apparatus would be capable of delivering
45 gallons per minute, or 27,000 gallons per day of ten hours--enough
for the thorough wetting of one acre per day, or every acre of the
five once in five days; by running nights, ten acres could be watered.
"When only a limited area is to be watered--less than an acre--the
wind-mill furnishes a cheaper source of power than the steam pump. To
make it available, large storage of water must be provided at a high
level, so that the mill may work during stormy weather and store the
water until needed. A wind-mill, costing with pump and tank about
$500, will furnish water enough for one or two acres of land, provided
storage can be provided for 200,000 gallons of water. To provide this
storage might cost as much as a steam pump. Where elevated reservoirs
can easily be made, and the amount of water needed is not over 10,000
gallons daily, the wind-mill is, without doubt, cheaper power than
steam."
Mr. Philbrick shows conclusively that where a gardener pays at the
rate of twenty-five cents per 1,000 gallons, or even much less, only
crops approaching $1,000 per acre in value will warrant the outlay.
When land can be easily graded, and irrigated through canals and
ditches, the yearly cost has been reduced, in some cases, as low as
from one to three dollars per acre per year.
"Wherever drainage is not perfect, it must be made so before
irrigation can be safely practiced; otherwise, if a heavy fall of rain
should occur just after application of water, the plants might suffer
seriously from being too wet."
In the discussion which followed the reading of this paper, Mr. John
B. Moore said, among other things: "No crop takes the moisture out of
the soil more quickly than strawberries, and, for these and other
crops which soon suffer from dryness, he lets the water run down the
rows all night from half a dozen large pipes."
Hon. Marshall T. Wilder then remarked that "the secret how Mr. Moore
produced his large strawberries had now come out."
(In a letter recently received, Mr. Moore further states: "In the
garden, I have had the best results where I have let the water run out
of open hose between the rows of raspberries, strawberries, etc.,
always making it a rule to wet the ground thoroughly, and then stop,
and not apply any more until there is good evidence of the soil
needing it again. A constant drizzle is detrimental to vegetation.")
Mr. W. C. Strong said that the "even distribution of water was very
important; otherwise, the ground became sodden in places, and other
parts received no benefit. He thought that considerable part of the
benefit of irrigation arose from showering the foliage, especially at
night, as in a green-house."
Mr. Philbrick said that he applied water in sunshine sometimes, but
that in general he did not like to do so. (I would caution the reader
to be very careful about wetting foliage under a hot sun, as it often
causes both leaves and fruit to scald. I once lost a crop of
gooseberries through a midday shower, followed by a hot afternoon.)
Mr. E. P. Richardson had found a hose perforated with holes an eighth
of an inch in diameter, and about three or four inches apart, very
convenient for applying water. It can be laid anywhere, in a straight
or crooked line, and under plants whose leaves are injured by watering
in the bright sun. Such a hose may be left for hours without
attention.
In the garden at Kalamazoo already referred to, the water was obtained
by damming up a spring. "The water was conveyed in a wooden conduit,
made of two-inch plank, and rendered water-tight by coal tar." The
whole apparatus was very inexpensive, and proves that in many
instances the ingenious and enterprising horticulturist can work out a
simple system of his own that, at slight cost, will answer his
purpose.
This chapter aims at little more than to put the reader on the right
track for further investigation, and to suggest a few of the first
principles and requirements of irrigation. The great majority have
little realization of the amount of water required, and very often
much loss is incurred and injury caused by attempting artificial
watering with an insufficient supply. Mr. Dunkley, at Kalamazoo,
started with a wind-mill, but found it wholly inadequate. Partial
watering is worse than useless. By liberal mulching, very much less
water is required, and much longer intervals between irrigation may
elapse.
If one designs to undertake irrigation upon a large scale, he should
employ the services of an expert, and "make haste slowly." At the same
time, many fruit farms are so located, or might be, that the laborer
with a pick and shovel could solve the problem of an abundant supply
of water.
When unfailing moisture can be maintained, and plants are not
permitted to bear in June, nor to make runners, almost a full crop may
be obtained in the autumn.
CHAPTER XXXI
SUGGESTIVE EXPERIENCES FROM WIDELY SEPARATED LOCALITIES
It is often said that there is no teaching like experience, and in
view of this sound principle I am led to quote from a few of the
letters that I have received. These statements, from successful and
intelligent cultivators, throw side lights on the preceding pages from
various standpoints. I would advise the reader to note carefully the
adaptation of different varieties to different parts of the country.
As we have just been discussing the subject of irrigation, I will
first quote from California letters, since they touch on this topic.
From Mr. James Shinn's interesting communication, I take the following
facts:
"NILES, ALAMEDA CO., CAL.
"The greater part of the strawberries consumed in San Francisco are
grown in the neighborhood of San Jose, some fifty miles south of the
city. We are situated about halfway between, in the great valley that
borders the bay of San Francisco. We have occupied this place over
twenty years, and have made observations upon the culture of small
fruits, and have always grown more or less ourselves. While,
therefore, I do not claim to be authority on the points you inquire
about, I feel pretty safe in mentioning one or two things in this
connection, that I can hardly be mistaken about!
"_First_--Those who plant extensively for market make it a _sine qua
non_ to have at hand plenty of water; except in very favored
localities, they can't be grown to profit without this essential. I
know that the plants are planted on each side of a small ridge,
previously thrown up for the purpose. The vines along the ridge
stand twelve to fifteen inches apart. The space between the ridges
allows three and a half feet for cultivation and water. The water is
allowed to run between these ridges, and, of course, wets the roots
effectually. It will be perceived that the ground must be nearly
level. I cannot tell how often these rows are watered, but frequently.
The proper season for planting is as early in the winter as the ground
can be put in order--from November 1st, all winter--the earlier the
better. If planted early, a fair crop of berries may be expected the
next summer. For many years the Longwood's Prolific and Peabody
Seedling were the varieties generally grown. Recently some other
varieties have been introduced, but are mostly confined to the hands
of amateurs. The Monarch of the West has, however, certainly secured a
strong foothold among the large growers. This berry commanded a much
larger price in the market than the old varieties. I just remark
respecting irrigation that, of course, as you will see, the object of
planting upon ridges is to place the vines so high that when the water
is let in, the berries will be above its reach. Nearly all our large
growers let their fields to Chinamen, who do all the work, boarding
themselves, for half the net proceeds.
"SAN JOSE, CAL.
"In answer to your letter, asking about irrigation, I would state that
in the first place we grade the land, after first plowing and
harrowing it. We do not like to do too much grading. If the land is
very uneven, we make the rows conform to it, bringing the water on the
highest portions, and cutting escape ditches through the low parts, so
that the water can run off readily. The rows are made three feet
apart, and every alternate row is shovelled or plowed out to make a
shallow ditch about three or four inches deep. Soil is thrown on or
between the alternate rows, making the ground look like small beds.
The plants are set in rows about six inches from the edge of the
ditches. We are now ready for the water, which is nearly all taken
from artesian wells. The first year, the plants do not require so much
moisture; but the second year, we water about once a week. We keep all
runners cut off. "J. H. Ogier."
"Brown's Valley, Yuba Co., Cal.
"My business is raising strawberries and blackberries for market,
which is eleven miles distant, and I send all my fruit by stage. I
have experimented with all leading varieties, since Orange Judd
introduced the _Agriculturist_, but succeed best with Triomphe de
Gand, Longworth's Prolific, Jucunda, and Colonel Cheney. The latter is
rather soft to carry so far to market. I commence sending to market
about the middle of April. About the middle of June the Triomphe
begins to ripen a second crop. Last year they were the largest and
finest berries I ever saw. In September the Jucunda bears a third
crop. Prom May until October we depend entirely on irrigation. Our
soil is red, stiff, and heavy. I use abundantly well-rotted stable
manure and barnyard compost. I prepare by deep plowing, and then
harrowing. I then go over the ground for the plants with Hexamer's
pronged hoe, making the soil very fine. I set the plants two feet
apart each way, and where each one is to grow, I work in a large
shovelful of manure deeply and thoroughly. I give blackberries the
same mode of culture, setting them three feet by eight. No winter
protection is needed. In ordinary seasons, there are a few
strawberries all winter long. Strawberries and blackberries are very
productive, and enormous in size, but currants, gooseberries, and red
raspberries do not succeed in this region, the long and intensely hot
and dry season being unfavorable. John Palmer."
"NEW CASTLE, CAL.
"The President Wilder is the finest flavored berry we have ever
tasted, and it is the most attractive in color of all. The Jucunda
does not do well on our light soil. The Monarch is splendid. We grow
raspberries quite extensively, our climate and location being better
adapted to them, perhaps, than any other part of California. The
earliest berry with us is the Red Antwerp (probably the English). It
is a week earlier than the Franconia. The Herstine is a fine berry
every way, except as regards firmness. The cap varieties are inferior
in flavor here.
C. M. SILVA & SON"
From other sources I learn that the Triomphe de Gand and Seth Boyden
are among the chief favorites in California.
Mr. Felix Gillet, Nevada City, Cal., author of an excellent little
treatise on the culture of the strawberry in his region, says: "The
row and hill system is certainly the best of all, especially to raise
large, fine fruit. The rows should be two feet apart, or thirty-six
inches, if irrigating by running water in each row as it is done in
California. The plants should be set, the large-growing sorts two feet
from each other in the row, the smaller ones from twelve to eighteen
inches."
"AUSTIN, TEXAS
"I put in water-works, and it is the best investment I ever made. I
supply Austin with vegetables the whole year round. It was very dry
last year, but I loaded three wagons with vegetables every day. We
watered twenty acres regularly, and will water thirty this year. I am
making a large reservoir on a hill, which will be supplied from a
large well through a six-inch pipe. I use Knowles's steam pump, 30
horse-power, capable of pumping 750,000 gallons daily. Of
strawberries, the Kentucky Seedling can stand the most heat and
drought. Crescent Seedling looks well here, also the Forest Rose.
Raspberries, currants, and gooseberries cannot be raised. We plant
strawberries one foot apart in the row, and the rows are three feet
apart We mulch early in spring, and cultivate by horse-power after the
bearing season is over. I regard cow manure, leaf mould, and bone
flour as the best fertilizers. I consider fall, October or November,
as the best time for planting.
"WILLIAM RADAM."
"PALESTINE, TEXAS.
"The Charles Downing, Seth Boyden, and President Wilder have done
well. The Charles Downing has flourished as though native and to the
manner born. The Kentucky has done remarkably well; the Wilson not so
well. Raspberries, on the whole, have done well, but currants and
gooseberries will not survive. The strawberries have done better than
I hoped. I have always looked upon the strawberry as a semi-aquatic
plant, and this view has been strengthened by an account of a
wonderful crop produced in this region by abundant and systematic
watering. The great difficulty against which we have to contend is the
prolonged summer, when, for weeks, the thermometer ranges from 90
degrees to 95 degrees in the shade. To this must be added spells of
dry weather, lasting sometimes for six or eight consecutive weeks in
July, August, and September.
"D. S. H. SMITH."
"NEW ORLEANS, LA.
"Experienced cultivators prepare for strawberries by thorough plowing
and subsoiling. We cultivate by subsoil plow, cultivator, and hoe,
with no stones to impede our work. The bearing season lasts about 90
days. I have had two full crops in the same season. The best time to
plant is, 1st, in August; 2d, in December. The Wilson and Charles
Downing do well. The black-cap raspberries succeed: the red
raspberries are thus far a failure. Blackberries do very well.
D. M. WIGGINS, _Agricultural editor_, 'N. 0. Times.'"
Mr. H. W. Lamb, of Colorado Springs, writes me that strawberries and
the hardy red raspberries do well in his section. They regard sheep
manure as one of the best fertilizers. Dr. Samuel Hape, of Atlanta,
Ga., writes: "In reply to your favor, I would say that strawberries
and blackberries do splendidly here, raspberries moderately, and
currants and gooseberries as exceptions; grapes finely.
"Our soils are mostly loam, with some sand, and a clay subsoil. Bottom
lands have the usual deposits of muck and partially decomposed
vegetable matter. The damp, rich soil, of course, suits strawberries
and blackberries; though the latter grow wild to such perfection, and
in such abundance, as to do away with cultivation almost entirely. The
red raspberry does not succeed very well as a rule. While damp, under-
drained soil and sandy loam are best for strawberries, the dry uplands
have almost invariably produced well. As to fertilizers, well-
decomposed stable manure and bone meal have done the best with us.
"No winter protection is needed. The fall, with us, is the best season
to transplant strawberries, by all odds--as soon as the September
rains set in. DR. SAMUEL HAPE."
"JACKSONVILLE, FLA., Dec. 23, 1878.
"With pleasure, I answer your questions to the best of my ability. 1.
What varieties of small fruits do best in your locality? Strawberries
and blackberries do well, but owing to the abundance of wild fruit,
late and early, the blackberry is not cultivated largely. No other
small fruits have been fairly tried. The general opinion is that our
warm weather lasts too long for the raspberry, gooseberry, and
currant. I have given the raspberry a trial, and cannot recommend it.
2. What soils are best adapted to them? We have two soils on which the
strawberry thrives, the low hummock bordering on the river. It is rich
in vegetable and mineral matter--clay from two to four feet under
surface. The next is our pine land; soil light, and of grayish color,
nearly devoid of vegetable matter, but largely supplied with lime and
potash. Strawberries and blackberries do well on this soil. We have
what is termed high hummock. It is a yellow loam, with clay, varying
from two to six feet from surface. The orange, peach, grape, fig,
quince and plum do well on this soil. 3. What is your mode of culture?
For strawberries, I lay off beds, slightly raised, 8 feet wide. On
each bed I put four rows of plants, running the full length of beds.
For Wilsons, rows 18 inches, and 12 inches between plants; Charles
Downing, and Seth Boyden, 18 by 18 inches. Cover all the space with
pine-needles by the time warm weather sets in, and shade their fruit
from the hot sun. I cultivate with a small hand cultivator, partly
invented by myself, and by hoeing. 4. What fertilizer do you consider
most efficient? A compost of stable manure, muck, and potash. 5. What
winter protection do you give, if any? None needed. For summer
protection, pine straw between plants; this answers a double purpose--
to keep the fruit clean, also to protect the plants in warm, dry
weather, and retain moisture. 6. Do you consider spring or fall the
best season for planting in your locality? If I have home-grown
plants, I prefer planting from last of August to first of December.
Northern plants, unless grown in pots, do best if obtained in November
or December. I will add here, for your information, Wilson's Albany is
very shy of making runners for the first year or two after coming from
the North. Seth Boyden and Charles Downing take possession of the
ground after fruiting is over. WILLIAM JAMES."
Mr. P. J. Berkmans, the well-known horticulturist of Augusta, Ga.,
informed me that the Kentucky, Charles Downing, and Crescent endured
the southern sun well, and that the Captain Jack and Sharpless were
fine with them; all the purple cane and black-cap raspberries did
well, but none of the foreign kinds thrived. Mr. Berkmans remarked
that, even after ten years of bearing, he hesitated to express a
positive opinion concerning a fruit, so great are the differences
caused by location and soil. It is your young men that have been two
or three years in the business, who have positive opinions on every
subject.
In the suburbs of Savannah, Ga., I found three-quarters of an acre of
strawberries that had yielded a clear profit of $800 in one season.
The preparation and culture for this profitable crop were as follows:
A good coat of manure was spread early in spring and plowed under.
Cow-peas were then sown and plowed under in August, when another coat
of manure was harrowed in. Planting was commenced August 10, and the
plants set fourteen inches from each other, in beds with alleys
between, twenty-eight inches wide. They were worked with a cultivator,
mulched with pine straw in January, and stimulated from time to time
with liquid manure. The fact that they secured a good home market
accounts, in part, for the large profit.
Through the courtesy of Captain Sigwald, himself a successful
horticulturist, I was able to visit many strawberry plantations in the
vicinity of Charleston, S. C., and will give a few statistics from one
of the most nourishing. The plants were vigorous, and the long rows
clean and free from runners. The best plants had been set out in the
preceding September. The force employed to set five and a half acres
was: five hands taking up the plants with a large patent transplanter,
that brought away a ball of earth with the roots; five more laborers
"toting," or carrying on hand-barrows, the plants from the propagating
bed to the fruiting field, and four planting. The expense of planting
was $15 per acre. Prom the five and a half acres, there were shipped
to New York 15,200 quarts, on which the freight, at fifteen cents per
quart, amounted to $2,280. Commission on sales was $4l3--leaving a
balance of only $1,670, and out of this all other expenses had to
come. Thus it way be seen that the expense of marketing the crop was
greater than the expense of growing it and the net profit combined--a
condition of things that should not last. The freight has been reduced
to ten cents per quart this year, I understand.
The Monarch seems peculiarly adapted to East Tennessee, and Mr. Ed. S.
Sheppard, who first introduced them, found a sensation resulting that
in its proportions resembled the mammoth berry.
The Crystal City and Captain Jack are favorite varieties in Missouri.
For the latitude and climate of New York, and westward, much
suggestion has been given already.
Mr. J. T. Lovett, of Little Silver, N. J., gives the following list as
the best selection for their light sandy soils:
FOR THE HOME GARDEN
_Strawberries_
French's Seedling--best early crop.
Charles Downing--best medium, or main crop.
Kentucky--best late.
_Red Raspberries_
Herstine--best early.[Footnote: "Requires winter protection to ensure
a crop."]
Turner--best entirely hardy early.
Cuthbert--best medium and late.
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