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The Physiology of Taste

B >> Brillat Savarin >> The Physiology of Taste



Steve Harris, Charles Franks and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team.



THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE;

OR,

TRANSCENDENTAL GASTRONOMY.


ILLUSTRATED BY ANECDOTES OF DISTINGUISHED ARTISTS AND STATESMEN OF


BOTH CONTINENTS. BY BRILLAT SAVARIN.




TRANSLATED FROM THE LAST PARIS EDITION BY FAYETTE ROBINSON.





CONTENTS.




APHORISMS of the Professor to serve as Prolegomena to his work,
and Eternal basis of the Science,

DIALOGUE, between the Author and his Friend,

BIOGRAPHY,

PREFACE,


MEDITATION I.
THE SENSES,

Number of the Senses,

Action of the Senses,

Perfectness of the Senses,

Powers of the Taste,

Object of the Action of the Senses,


MEDITATION II.
TASTE,

Definition of Taste,

Mechanism of Taste,

Sensation of Taste,

Flavors,

Influence of Smelling on the Taste,

Analyses of the Sensation of Taste,

Order of the Impressions of Taste,

Enjoyments due to the Taste,

Supremacy of Man,

Method of the Author,


MEDITATION III.
GASTRONOMY,

Origin of Sciences,

Origin of Gastronomy,

Definition of Gastronomy,

Different objects of Gastronomy,

Utility of Gastronomical Knowledge,

Influence of Gastronomy on Business,

Gastronomical Academy,


MEDITATION IV.
APPETITE,

Definition of Appetite,

Anecdote,

Great Appetites,


MEDITATION V.
FOOD IN GERMS--Section First,

Definitions,

Analyses,

Osmazome,

Principle of Aliments,

Vegetable Kingdom,

Difference between Fat and Lean,

Individual Instance,


MEDITATION VI.
FOOD IN GERMS--Section Second,

Specialities,

I. Pot-au-feu, Potage, etc.,

II. Bouilli,

III. Fowls,

IV. The Turkey,

Dindoniphiles,

Financial Influence of the Turkey,

Exploit of the Professor,

V. Game,

VI. Fish,

Anecdote,

Muria--Garum,

Philosophical Reflection,

VII. Truffles,

Erratic Virtue of Truffles,

Are Truffles Indigestible,

VIII. Sugar,

Indigenous Sugar,

Uses of Sugur,

IX. Origin of Coffee,

Different Modes of preparing Coffee,

Effects of Coffee,

X. Chocolate--its origin,

Properties of Chocolate,

True Method of preparing Chocolate,


MEDITATION VII.
THEORY OF FRYING,

Allocution,

I. Chemistry,

II. Application,


MEDITATION VIII.
ON THIRST,

Varieties of Thirst,

Causes of Thirst,

Example,


MEDITATION IX.
ON DRINKS,

Water,

Quick effect of Drinks,

Strong Drinks,


MEDITATION X.
AN EPISODE ON THE END OF THE WORLD,


MEDITATION XI.
ON GOURMANDISE,

Definitions,

Advantages of Gourmandise,

Sequel,

Power of Gourmandise,

A Lady Gourmand,

Anecdote,

Are Women Gourmands?

The effects of Gourmandise of Sociability,

Influence of Gourmandise on Conjugal Happiness,

Note of a Patriot Gastronomer,


MEDITATION XII.
GOURMANDS,

All who wish to be are not Gourmands,

Napoleon,

Gourmands by Destiny,

Gourmands by Profession,

Financiers,

Physicians,

Objurgation,

Men of Letters,

Devotees,

Chevaliers and Abbes,

Longevity of Gourmands,


MEDITATION XIII.
GASTRONOMICAL TESTS,

First Series--Income of 5,000 francs,

Second Series--Income of 15,000 francs,

Third Series--Income of 30,000 francs, or more,

MEDITATION XIV. ON THE PLEASURES OF THE TABLE,

Origin of the Pleasures of the Table,

Difference between the Pleasures of Eating and the Pleasures
of the Table,

Effects,

Accessories,

The 18th and 19th Century,

Summary,


MEDITATION XV.
HALTES DE CHASSE,

Ladies,


MEDITATION XVI.
ON DIGESTION,

Ingestion,

Duty of the Stomach,

Influence of Digestion,


MEDITATION XVII.
REPOSE,

Time of Rest,


MEDITATION XVIII.
SLEEP,

Definition,


MEDITATION XIX.
DREAMS,

Nature of Dreams,

System of Dr. Gall,

First Observation,

Second Observation,

Result,

Age,

Phenomena of Dreams,

First Observation,

Second Observation,

Third Observation,

Do as you will be done by,


MEDITATION XX.
INFLUENCE OF DIET ON REST, SLEEP AND DREAMS,

Effects of Diet on Labor,

Dreams,

Consequence,

Result,


MEDITATION XXI. OBESITY,

Causes of Obesity,

Sequel,

Sequel,

Anecdote,

Inconvenience of Obesity,

Examples of Obesity,


MEDITATION XXII.
PRESERVATIVE TREATMENT AND CURE OF OBESITY,

Generalities,

Sequel of the Regimen,

Dangers of Acids,

Antiobesic Belt,

Quinquina,


MEDITATION XXIII.
THINNESS,

Definition,

Varieties,

Effects of Thinness,

Natural Predestination,

Fattening Regimen,


MEDITATION XXIV.
FASTING,

Definition,

Origin,

How people used to Fast,

Origin of the removal of Restriction in Fasting,


MEDITATION XXV.
EXHAUSTION,

Treatment,

Cure by the Professor,


MEDITATION XXVI.
DEATH,


MEDITATION XXVII.
PHILOSOPHICAL HISTORY OF THE KITCHEN,

Order of Alimentation,

Discovery of Fire,

Baking,

Oriental Entertainments--Grecian,

Roman Festivals,

Resurrection of Lucullus,

Poetry,

Irruption of the Barbarians,


MEDITATION XXVIII.
RESTAURATEURS,

Establishment,

PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE--Part Second,

TRANSITION,

VARIETIES,
I. L'omelette du Cure,

Omelette au Thon,

Observations,

II. A National Victory,

III. Mystification of the Professor and Defeat of a General,

IV. The Snare,

V. The Turbot,

VI. Pheasants,

VII. Gastronomical Industry of the Emigres,

VIII. Recollections of the Emigration,

The Weaver,

The Starving,

Sojourn in America,

Asparagus,

Fondue,

Recipe for Fondue, Copied from the Papers of M. Trollet,
Bailli of Mondon in Berne,

Disappointment,

Wonderful Effects of a Classical Dinner,

Effects and Danger of Strong Drinks,

Chevaliers and Abbes,

Miscellany--Wine,

Strawberries,

Judgment,

Raisins,

A Day with the Bernardines,

Prosperity en route,

H. ... DeP ...,

Conclusion,



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH.

The excellent man to whom we are indebted for this book has
described himself, with so much charm, nature and truth; the
principal events of his life have been recorded in such an
agreeable and faithful manner that very few words will suffice to
finish the story.

Brillat Savarin (Anthelme) Counsel of the Court of Cassation,
member of the Legion of Honor, member of the Society for the
Encouragement of National Industry, of the Antiquarian Society of
France, of the Philoselic Society of Bourg, &c., &c., was born,
1st of April, 1755, at Belley, a little Alpine city, not far from
the banks of the Rhine, which at this place separates France from
Savoy. Like his forefathers, who had been for several generations
devoted to the bar, the profession which pleased him, in
consequence of his possession of great eloquence, he practised
with great success.

In, 1789, the unanimous vote of his fellow citizens deputed him
to the Constituent assembly, composed of all that was most
brilliant in the youth of France at that day. Less attached in
practice to the philosophy of Zeno than that of Epicurus, his name
does not figure very conspicuously, but always appears at epochs,
which show that he acted with the good and moderate.

His legislative functions being determined by the expiration of
the Constituent Assembly, he was first appointed President of the
Superior Civil court of the Department of Ain, and subsequently a
Justice of the Court of Cassation, newly instituted; a man of
talent, perfectly incorruptible and unhesitating in the discharge
of his duty, he would have been precisely calculated for the place
to which he had been appointed, had the warmth of political
discussion made practicable the advice either of moderation or of
prudence. In 1793, he was Mayor of Belley, and passed in anxiety
there, the season of the reign of Terror; whence he was forced to
fly to Switzerland for an asylum against the revolutionary
movement. Nothing can better man, without a personal enemy, should
be forced to pass in a foreign land the days he purposed to devote
to the improvement of his country.

This is the point when the character of Brillat Savarin assumes
its grandest proportions; proscribed, a fugitive, and often
without pecuniary resources, frequently unable to provide for his
personal safety, he was always able to console his companions in
exile and set them an example of honest industry. As time rolled
on, and his situation became more painful, he sought to find in
the new world a repose which Europe denied him; he came from
Europe, and in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, and Hartford passed
two years teaching the French language, and for a time playing the
first violin in the orchestra of the Park Theatre. Like many other
emigres, Brillat Savarin ever sought to make the pleasant and the
useful coincide. He always preserved very pleasant recollection of
this period of his life, in which he enjoyed, with moderate labor,
all that is necessary for happiness, liberty sweetened by honest
toil. He might say all is well, and to be able to enjoy the breath
of my native land would alone increase my happiness; he fancied
that he saw brighter days with the commencement of Vendemiaire
year 5, corresponding to September, of 1796. Appointed by the
Directory, as Secretary of the General in Chief of the Republican
armies in Germany, then Commisary of the government in the
department of the Seine and Oise, (this appointment he held at the
epoch of the 18th Brumaire, in which France fancied she exchanged
liberty for repose,) sustained by the Senate and the Court,
Brillat Savarin passed the remaining twenty-five years of his life
respected by his inferiors, loved by his equals, and honored by
all. A man of mind, a pleasant guest, with a deep fund of humor,
he delighted every body. His judicial labors did not at all
interfere with the composition of this book, which he esteemed the
great one of his life.

To the very facility of its composition, the "Physiology of the
Taste," owes its success; one would form a very erroneous opinion
of it, were he to estimate it at all as we do Montaigue's writings
on the Gueule. Savarin was naturally a thoughtful man, the
simplest meal satisfied him, all he required was that it should be
prepared artistically; and he maintained that the art of cookery
consisted in exciting the taste. He used to say, "to excite a
stomach of Papier Mache, and enliven vital powers almost ready to
depart, a cook needs more talent than he who has solved the
INFINTESIMAL CALCULUS."

The world was much surprised by finding in a book by Brillat
Savarin, a man it had always looked upon as simply a very pleasant
person, such a vast collection of general information; after his
laborious profession he had always seemed to expend the rest of
his time with the muses and graces, and none could divine where he
obtained so much information, as almost to recall the story of
some gray-haired sage of Greece. He had however already composed
more than one work unrecognised, if we except the two opuscula
"Critical and Historical Essay on Duel, with Relation to our
Legislation and Morals," and a work on judicial practice. They
were successful, but he was just then attacked by a violent cold,
contracted by being present at the annual ceremony, [Footnote: Not
only Brillat Savarin, but Robert De St. Vincent, and Attorney
General Marchangy, contracted their death in consequence of the
same ceremonial.] the 21st of January at the Church of St. Dennis.
In spite of every care and attention, on the 2d of February, 1826,
he died. For many years gifted with robust health and athletic
constitution, made the more remarkable by his tall stature,
Brillat Savarin had a presentiment of the approach of death; this
feeling, however, did not influence the tenor of his life, for his
habitual gaity was maintained unimpaired. When the fatal point was
reached, he died tanquam convivia satur, not without regret,
certainly, for he left many kind friends to whom his memory could
not but be dear.

APHORISMS OF THE PROFESSOR.

TO SERVE AS PROLEGOMENA TO HIS WORK AND ETERNAL BASIS TO THE
SCIENCE.

I. The universe would be nothing were it not for life and all that
lives must be fed.

II. Animals fill themselves; man eats. The man of mind alone knows
how to eat.

III. The destiny of nations depends on the manner in which they
are fed.

IV. Tell me what kind of food you eat, and I will tell you what
kind of man you are.

V. The Creator, when he obliges man to eat, invites him to do so
by appetite, and rewards him by pleasure.

VI. Gourmandise is an act of our judgment, in obedience to which,
we grant a preference to things which are agreeable, over those
which nave not that quality.

VII. The pleasure of the table belongs to all ages, to all
conditions, to all countries, and to all aeras; it mingles with
all other pleasures, and remains at last to console us for their
departure.

VIII. The table is the only place where one does not suffer, from
ennui during the first hour.

IX. The discovery of a new dish confers more happiness on
humanity, than the discovery of a new star.

X. Those persons who suffer from indigestion, or who become drunk,
are utterly ignorant of the true principles of eating and
drinking.

XI. The order of food is from the most substantial to the
lightest.

XII. The order of drinking is from the mildest to the most foamy
and perfumed.

XIII. To say that we should not change our drinks is a heresy; the
tongue becomes saturated, and after the third glass yields but an
obtuse sensation.

XIV. A dessert without cheese is like a beautiful woman who has
lost an eye.

XV. A cook may be taught, but a man who can roast, is born with
the faculty.

XVI. The most indispensable quality of a good cook is promptness.
It should also be that of the guests.

XVII. To wait too long for a dilatory guest, shows disrespect to
those who are punctual.

XVIII. He who receives friends and pays no attention to the repast
prepared for them, is not fit to have friends.

XIX. The mistress of the house should always be certain that the
coffee be excellent; the master that his liquors be of the first
quality.

XX. To invite a person to your house is to take charge of his
happiness as long as he be beneath your roof.



DIALOGUE between the author and his friend. (after the usual
salutations.)

FRIEND. As my wife and myself were at breakfast this morning, we
came to the conclusion that you should print, as soon as possible,
your Gastronomical Observations.

AUTHOR. What the wife wishes God wills. In six words that is the
charta of Paris. I, though, am not subject to that law, for I am
an unmarried man.

FRIEND. Bachelors, though, are as subject to the law as others
are, sometimes much to our injury. Single blessedness here,
however, will not save you. My wife says she has a right to order,
because you began your book at her country-house.

AUTHOR. You know, dear Doctor, how I defer to the ladies; more
than once you have found my submission to their orders. You also
were one of those who said I would make an excellent husband. I
will not, however, print my book.

FRIEND. Why not?

AUTHOR. Because being devoted, from the nature of my profession,
to serious studies, I fear that those who only know the title of
my book will think that I devote myself to trifles.

FRIEND. A panic terror! Thirty-six years of constant toil and
labor for the public, have made you a reputation. Besides, my wife
and I think every body would read you.

AUTHOR. Indeed!

FRIEND. The learned will read your book to ascertain what you have
to tell.

AUTHOR. Perhaps.

FRIEND. Women will read your book because they will see---

AUTHOR. My dear friend, I am old, I am attacked by a fit of
wisdom. Miserere mei.

FRIEND. Gourmands will read you because you do them justice, and
assign them their suitable rank in society.

AUTHOR. Well, that is true. It is strange that they have so long
been misunderstood; I look on the dear Gourmands with paternal
affection. They are so kind and their eyes are so bright.

FRIEND. Besides, did you not tell me such a book was needed in
every library.

AUTHOR. I did. It is the truth--and I would die sooner than deny
it.

FRIEND: Ah! you are convinced! You will come home with me?

AUTHOR. Not so. If there be flowers in the author's path, there
are also thorns. The latter I leave to my heirs.

FRIEND. But then you disinherit your friends, acquaintances and
cotemporaries. Dare you do so?

AUTHOR. My heirs! my heirs! I have heard that shades of the
departed are always flattered by the praise of the living; this is
a state of beatitude I wish to reserve myself for the other world.

FRIEND. But are you sure that the praise you love so, will come to
the right address? Are you sure of the exactness of your heirs?

AUTHOR. I have no reason to think they will neglect a duty, in
consideration of which I have excused them the neglect of so many
others.

FRIEND. Will they--can they have for your book the paternal love,
the author's attention without which every work always comes
awkwardly before the public?

AUTHOR. My manuscript will be corrected, written out distinctly,
and in all respects prepared; they will only have to print it.

FRIEND. And the chapter of events? Alas! such circumstances have
caused the loss of many precious books,--among which was that of
the famous Lecat, on the state of the body during sleep, the work
of his whole life.

AUTHOR. This doubtless was a great loss; but I anticipate no such
regrets for my book.

FRIEND. Believe me, your friends will have enough to do-to arrange
matters with the church, with the law, and with the medical
faculty, so that if they had the will, they would not have the
time to devote them-selves to the various cares which precede,
accompany, and follow the publication of a book,--however small
the volume may be.

AUTHOR. But, my friend, what a title! Think of the ridicule!

FRIEND. The word Gastronomy makes every ear attentive; the subject
is a la mode, and those who laugh are as great votaries of the
science as any others are. This should satisfy you. Do you
remember too, that the greatest men have sometimes written books
on very trivial subjects,-Montesquieu, for example. [Footnote: M.
de Monjucla, known as the author of an excellent history of
mathematics, made a Dictionary of Gourmand Geography; he showed me
portions of it during my residence at Versailles. It is said that
M. Berryat-Professor of legal practice, has written a romance in
several volumes on the subject.]

AUTHOR. (Quickly.) On my word, that is true. He wrote the Temple
of Gnidus, and it would not be difficult to sustain that there is
more real utility in meditating on what is at once a necessity, a
pleasure, and an occupation every day of our lives, than in
telling what was done and said a thousand years ago by two mad
people, one of whom pursued through the woods of Greece the other,
who had not the least disposition to escape.

FRIEND. Ah! ha! Now you yield?

AUTHOR. Not I. The ass's ear of the author only was shown; and
this recalls to my memory a scene of English comedy, which amused
me very much; it is, I think, in the play called the Natural
Daughter. You shall see, however, for yourself. [Footnote: The
reader will observe that my friend permits me to be familiar with
him, without taking advantage of it. The reason is, that the
difference between our ages is that of a father and a son, and
that, though now a man of great note and importance in every
respect, he would be completely overcome with grief if I changed
my bearing towards him.] The subject relates to the Quakers, that
sect which uses "thee" and "thou" to everybody, which dresses
simply, never go to war, never swear or act with passion, and who
never get angry. The hero of this piece is a young and handsome
Quaker, who appears on the scene in a brown coat, a broad-brimmed
hat, and slick hair! All this, though, does not keep him from
being in love.

A fool who is his rival, emboldened by his exterior, ridicules and
outrages him so that the young man gradually becoming excited, and
finally made furious, gives his assailant a severe thrashing.

Having done this he at once resumes his habitual deportment and
says, sadly, "Alas! the flesh is too mighty for the spirit."

Thus say I, and after a brief hesitation resume my first opinion.

FRIEND. That is impossible. You have shown your ear; you are a
prize, and I will take you to my bookseller. I will tell you who
has gotten wind of your secret.

AUTHOR. Do not; for I would speak of yourself, and who knows what
I would say?

FRIEND. What could you say? Do not think you can intimidate me.

AUTHOR. I will not say that our native city [Footnote: Belley,
capital of Bugey, where high mountains, hills, vines, limpid
streams, cascades, dells, gardens of a hundred square leagues are
found, and where, BEFORE the revolution, the people were able to
control the other two orders.] is proud of having given you birth.
At the age of twenty-four you published an elementary book, which
from that day has become a classic. A deserved reputation has
attracted confidence to you. Your skill revives invalids; your
dexterity animates them; your sensibility consoles them. All know
this; but I will reveal to all Paris, to all France, the sole
fault of which I know you guilty.

FRIEND. (Seriously.) What do you mean?

AUTHOR. An habitual fault which no persuasion can correct.

FRIEND. Tell me what you mean! Why torment me?

AUTHOR. You eat too quickly.

(Here, the friend takes up his hat and leaves, fancying that he
has made a convert.)



BIOGRAPHY

The Doctor I have introduced into the dialogue we have just read,
is not a creature of imagination like the Chloris of other days,
but a real living Doctor. Those who know me, will remember
RICHERAND.

When I thought of him I could not but have reference to those who
preceded him, and I saw with pride that from Belley, from the
department of Ain, my native soil, for a long time physicians of
the greatest distinction had come. I could not resist the
temptation to erect a brief monument to them.

During the regency Doctors Genin and Civoct were in full
possession of practice, and expended in their country a wealth
they had honorably acquired. The first was altogether
HIPPOCRATITE; he proceeded secundum artem; the second was almost
monopolized by women, and had as his device, as Tacitus would have
said, res novas molientem.

About 1780 Chapelle became distinguished in the dangerous career
of a military surgeon. About 1781 Doctor Dubois had great success
in sundry maladies, then very much a la mode, and in nervous
diseases. The success he obtained was really wonderful.

Unfortunately he inherited a fortune and became idle, and was
satisfied to be a good story-teller. He was very amusing, and
contrived to survive the dinners of the new and old regime.
[Footnote: I smiled when I wrote the above, for it recalled to me
an Academician, the eulogium of whom Fontenelle undertook. The
deceased knew only how to play at all games. Fontenelle made a
very decent oration, however, about him.] About the end of the
reign of Louis XV., Dr. Coste, a native of Chatillon came to
Paris; he had a letter from Voltaire to the Duc de Choiseuil, the
good wishes of whom he gained as soon as he had seen him.

Protected by this nobleman, and by the Duchess of Grammont, his
sister, young Coste advanced rapidly, and in a short time became
one of the first physicians of Paris.

The patronage he had received took him from a profitable career to
place him at the head of the medical department of the army which
France sent to the United States, who then were contending for
their independence.

Having fulfilled his mission, Coste returned to France, and almost
unseen lived through the evil days of 1793. He was elected maire
of Versailles, and even now the memory of his administration, at
once mild, gentle and paternal, has been preserved.

The Directors now recalled him to the charge of the medical
department of the army. Bonaparte appointed him one of the three
Inspectors General of the service; the Doctor was always the
friend, protector, and patron of the young men who selected that
service. He was at last appointed Physician of the Invalides, and
discharged the duties until he died.

Such service the Bourbons could not neglect, and Louis XVIII.
granted to Doctor Coste the cordon of Saint Michel.

Doctor Coste died a few years since, leaving behind kind
recollections, and a daughter married to M. Lalot, who
distinguished himself in the Chamber of Deputies by his eloquent
and profound arguments.

One day when we had dined with M. Favre, the Cure of St. Laurent,
Doctor Coste told me of a difficulty he had, the day before, with
the Count de Le Cessac, then a high officer of the ministry of
war, about a certain economy which the latter proposed as a means
of paying his court Napoleon.

The economy consisted in retrenching the allowances of hospital,
so as to restrict men who had wounds from the comforts they were
entitled to.

Doctor Coste said such measures were abominable, and he became
angry.

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